
Class. 
Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



* 




l/ir^ityia purist. 




By W. R. BOUTWELL. 



Entered according to act of Congress 14th of March, 1S92. All rights reserved by the author. 



PRESSES OF 

THE GATLING PRINTING COMPANY, 

Norfolk, Va. 

1892. 



X^ipginia * 6otipi?>t. 



/7\ONTAINING some of the curious and practical features of Norfolk and Portsmouth, Old 
^ Point Comfort, Hampton and Newport News, together with a description of the differ- 
ent points of interest in Hampton Roads and Elizabeth River, en route from Old Point 
Comfort to Norfolk. Old and curious epitaphs from Episcopal church yards, with ages of 
these venerable buildings: St. Paul's of Norfolk, Trinity of Portsmouth, St. John's of 
Hampton, and ruins of Jamestown church, illustrated. 

Great care has been taken to make this one of the handsomest books of the kind, a 
valuable guide and beautiful souvenir. 



HOTELS 



TQ}/£ , This Guide Book, which will have its largest circulation in the Seaboard 

/__.__ States, is gotten up expressly for tourists and the traveling public, and will 
I I ^s." he placed for sale on railroads, steamboats and in hotels. Principally the 
wealthier class will read it, and the handsome material used, together with 
the hook's artistic appearance, insures its preservation as a souvenir, thereby affording a stand- 
ing advertisement for those who avail themselves of it. 

Price for advertising in "VIRGINIA TOURIST" for six months: 



FULL PAGE, - - - $20.00 
HALF PAGE, - - - 12.00 



QUARTER PAGE, - - - $7.00 
ILLUSTRATIONS, - extra, 5.00 



The above rates are for hotels ; all others fifty per cent. more. Preference given when 
cash accompanies order. 

Agents are wanted on railroads, steamboats, hotels and all over the country. 
Price per copy to any address, postage paid, Paper 75c, Leather $1.25. 

BIG DISCOUNT TO AGENTS. 

Address, 3^, R , BOUTWELL, 

NORFOLK, VA. Publisher. 



"pa/T\o<Js U/omer? of ^ Old JestameQt," 

Embracing a course of Sixteen Lectures, recently delivered by 
REV. 7VY. B. WHRRTON, D. D. 



SUBJECTS: 



Eve, the Mother of Mankind. 
Surah, the Wife of Abraham. 
Rebecca, the Wife of Isaac. 
Rachel, the Wife of Jacob. 
Miriam, the Sister of Moses. 
Deborah, the Prophetess. 
Ruth, the Lovely Young Widow. 
Jephtha's Daughters. 



Delilah, the False Wife of Sampson. 

The Witch of Endor. 

Hannah, the fraying Mother. 

Abigail, the Wife of David. 

The Queen of Sheba. 

Jezebel, the Bloody Mary of Scripture. 

The Shunamite Woman. 

Esther, the Israelitish Queen. 



Each subject beautifully illustrated. Price, $1.75. 

Address, 



NORFOLK, VA. 



Hev. JVI. B. WHARTON, D. £>., 

Atlantic Hotel. 



mnn^ S>oatr? Series." 



/^ SET of cabinet-size photographs of the negro, 
J depicting him in the various and characteristic 

attitudes of his race ; all from life ; very interesting 
and humorous. L,ist of subjects sent on application. 
15 cents each ; ten (assorted) $1.00. They sell well 
at hotels. Agents wanted. 

Address, 

W. R. BOUTWELL, 

PUBLISHER SOUVENIR PHOTOGRAPHS, 
Lock BOX 514. NORFOLK, i/K, 



PHOTOGRAPHS OF OLD EPISCOPAL CHURCHES FOR SALE: 

Bruton Parish Church, Williamsburg; Monumental, of Richmond ; Blandfoid Church, of 
Petersburg; Church at City Point, on James River; Goose Creek Church, at Otranto, 
South Carolina; Trinity, of Portsmouth; St. John's, of Hampton; Ruins of Jamestown 
Church; St. Paul's, of Norfolk, and St. Luke's, of Isle of Wight County, Va. ; St. 
Michael's, of Charleston, S. C. Ages of these churches furnished with photographs. 
Also many 

PLANTATION SCENES 

Along James River, embracing Upper and Lower Brandon, Westover, Shirley, etc. 

battlefields: 

Seven Pines, Malvern Hill, the Crater, etc. 

EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR VIEWS 

Of all these buildings: Lee and His Friends, a group taken at White Sulphur, in '68 ; 
photos from paintings of Col. William Byrd, founder of Richmond, and Evelyn Byrd, 
his daughter, who died of a broken heart, and Miss Blount, Upper Brandon. Ninety 
famous Southern .Soldiers in miniature, photographs (very good) on card, 7x10. The 
Battle of Trevallions, Heroes of the Valley, Confederate Flags, Amelie Rives and Marion 
Harland. Also the following 

CATALOGUE OF CELEBRITIES: 

Hon. John Tyler, ex-President United States, from portrait; Hon. R. M. T. Hunter, Hon. 
Robert Toombs, Hon. Robert Ould, Hon. John B. Baldwin, Hon. J. L. M. Curry, Hon. Allen T. 
Caperton, Gen. Robert R. Lee, Gen. Stonewall Jackson, Gen. Joseph E. Johnston, Gen. G. T. 




JOieititif, 



Hygeia Hotel, (F. N. Tike, Manager), old Point Comfort, \'a 
Accommodations, i ,000. 



Beauregard, Gen. Jubal Early, Gen. William Mahone, Gen. George W. Randolph, Gen. William 
Smith, ex-Governor of Virginia, Gen. John S. Preston, Gen. John Echols, Gen. Custis Lee, 
Gen. R. D. Lilly, Gen. Harry Heth, Gen. D. H. Maury, Gen. B. T. Johnston, Gen. W. H. F. 
Lee, Rev. Dr. Moses D. Hoge, Hugh Blair Grigsby, Historian ; Hon. Gilbert C. Walker, Arch- 
bishop Bailey, Bishop Gibbons, ex-Governor Randolph, of New Jersey ; Madame Janauscheck, 
Edward Valentine, Sculptor; George Peabody, Bishop Whittle, ex-Governor Groom, of Mary- 
land; Bishop Wingfield, Patrick Henry, from portrait; Gen. J. Bankhead Magruder, ex-Governor 
Henry A. Wise, James Barron Hope, Charles Campbell, Historian of Virginia. 

Stonewall Jackson's Statue, Jeff. Davis' Mansion, State Capitol, Libby Prison, Castle Thun- 
der — Confederate prison, Washington's Monument, Gen. Lee's Residence, Statue of Henry 
Clay, Tomb of ex-President Monroe, Drury's Bluff, Belle Isle— prisoners' camp, Birds-eye View 
of Richmond, Monument to Confederate Dead. 

VIEWS 

Of Petersburg and vicinity, including the Crater and Blandford Church, and other subjects. 

Views of entire route of C. S: 0. R. R., embracing some of the wildest and most beautiful 
scenery of the world. 

Views of White Sulphur Springs, Old Sweet, Rock Bridge Alum, Hot Springs, Healing 
Springs, etc. 

Natural Bridge, Home of Thomas Jefferson, Tomb of Thomas Jefferson. 

Views of Yorktowli and Williamsburg, including many Historical and Colonial relics. 

If there is anything you want send for it, and if possible it will be supplied. 

Address, ^ ^ BOUTWELili, PUBLISHER, 

BOX 514, NORFOLK, VA. 



Old poirpt Oomjfopt. 



O^HOUSANDS are yearly attracted here, and it is but natural that they should 
\^ty be desirous of learning all they can about the place they are visiting. 
Many persons are averse to asking questions, and others object decidedly 
to being bored by them. It follows then that the best thing for a stranger to do 
is to procure reliable information by paying for it and start out on his own hook. 
Independence is a great virtue, and it should be cultivated. It will be the aim 
of the writer to give in a concise yet comprehensive manner particulars con- 
cerning the curious and practical features of the places herein named. As my 
little book will embody both of these features, and as the writer well knows that 
while the masculine will devour both the curious and practical, there are man} 7 
of the fair sex who will care for only the curious, and in order to save those 
who do not care for the practical the trouble of reading it, I have separated 
them as much as is consistent with the sense of the book. Norfolk curious 
is treated separately from Norfolk practical, and the same with Newport News 











uwrLING PTCCO.N»Ry°l*. 



SURF BATHING. 



OI<D POINT COMFORT — THE HYGEIA. II 

and Hampton. But on our trip from Old Point Comfort to Norfolk both are 
embraced, because it would be obviously difficult to separate them. The lover 
of the curious may stop at the oyster beds and Lambert's Point Coaling Station, 
but even these should be of interest to all. 

The writer has a practical knowledge of the places of which he is writing, 
and is prepared to take the visitor over the ground and explain the different 
attractions without perplexing him. 

I have first considered Old Point Comfort, because it is here the visitor is 
likely to stop first. 

He has heard of the salubrious climate, the wonderful restorations to health, 
the unsurpassed sea bathing, the famed Hygeia with its most excellent manage- 
ment, fish, oysters and soft-shell crabs and other delicacies of the bay, over and 
over again. Thousands, by their patronage of this place, attest to the correct- 
ness of this, and a simple allusion to the matter is all that is necessary. Mr. 
Harrison Phoebus, former proprietor of the Hygeia, won for it a national repu- 
tation, which is being admirably sustained by the present management, and it 
is at this time one of the most popular and fashionable resorts on the coast. 
The building is most comfortably furnished, and as for the inner man the most 
capricious and exacting can be pleased. 

Seated in its spacious dining-room, looking out upon Hampton Roads, with 
a cool breeze refreshing us, our surroundings scrupulously clean, we are induced 



12 OLD POINT COMFORT — THE HYGEIA. 

to eat anyhow, and but for a necessary observance of certain rules of etiquette, 
might even clean the platter. 

Those who wish the convenience of Turkish, Electric, Sulphur and other 
baths can be accommodated with the most improved facilities. 

There is much of interest to be seen in the surrounding country. A drive 
'round will be one of the most delightful occasions of your visit. The hire of 
carriages is reasonable, charging from $1.00 to $1.50 per hour, and they are in 
the care of most experienced and reliable drivers. Tickets are procured at the 
office, but before having our drive we may take in some of the features of Old 
Point, which we can as well do on foot, reserving the drive for Hampton, Soldiers' 
Home, Normal School and other places of interest. 

OUTSIDE THE FORT. 

HAVING the hotel and passing to our left, the gun yard, with its one 
hundred thousand shot and shell for rifle and smooth bore guns, we 
continue straight on, passing several comfortable-looking houses on our 
right. These have recently been constructed, are for the officers of the fort, and 
have greatly improved this part of the point. Just in rear of these houses are 
the torpedo casemates; a large, turf- grown embankment gives you the clue to 
them. It is difficult to learn all the particulars concerning this work, but that 
it is designed for the defense of this harbor is apparent, and here, under the 




BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF PART OF FORTRESS MONROE. 



OLD POINT COMFORT — HARBOR DEFENCE. 14 

cover of this large sand pile, the torpedoes will be launched and the manoeuvres 
conducted by three separate wires which pass out to the west end of the point 
through a subterranean channel. The torpedoes will probably traverse one of 
these wires, while another will be used for raising and lowering, and the third 
for the discharge of them. It is supposed that they will connect at Willoughby's 
Spit, a point directly opposite to Fort Monroe, but it must for the present be 
a matter of conjecture, as those who are familiar with the plans are very reticent 
concerning them. These torpedo casemates are built of sand taken from im- 
mediately in front of the Hygeia, and this, together with quite as much more, 
without causing any perceptible loss to the beach. It was at first slightly 
noticeable, but a few days' time restored the beach to its original condition. 
Other work, with a similar object in view, is going on outside of and at the 
north end of the fort. A battery for disappearing guns is being built, and it is 
understood that three such guns will be placed here, and perhaps by the time 
the visitor comes he will have an opportunity of seeing one of the most modern 
forms of harbor defense. Just north of this battery, following a line of the 
beach, you will notice a sand hill, overgrown with trees and brush. This is the 
cemetery, and is used alike for soldiers and civilians. Visitors frequently stroll 
up the beach as far as this, but there is nothing of special interest to be seen, 
and we may as well retrace our steps, following the shore until we come to the 
Hygeia. 



I 5 OLD POINT COMFORT — PILOT POATS. 

The stone jetties that you see extending out into the water are a piece of 
engineering for the purpose of preventing further encroachment by the water on 
the beach. And here it is appropriate to note that the sea on the eastern side 
encroaches slightly on the beach, while on the other the land is gaining most 
rapidly on the water, the beach having within the last fifteen years made out 
nearly two hundred feet, and where the gun yard which you have already seen 
now stands, once stood water. This. fact is vouched for by many who are living. 

A narrow outer reef traverses the eastern side, while on the western it drops 
off most abruptly. A person standing at low tide at edge of the water can, by 
taking four or five steps, find himself in a depth often or twelve feet. So rapidly 
is this western side making out that with the protection of the eastern and the 
already naturally formed land, Uncle Sam will soon have a reservation large 
enough for another fortification. 

Within a stone's throw of this side of the peninsula is where the boats of 
the Maryland and Virginia pilots anchor. These boats are by their rig familiar 
to those who have an insight into nautical affairs, but for the benefit of the 
uninitiated I will say they have two masts. The name appears in head of fore- 
sail, and a large number in the mainsail, which serves to distinguish them at 
a distance, designate the character of these vessels. 

In their general rig they resemble very much the yacht, and indeed these 
vessels are built with a view to fast sailing, being constructed on such principles 



OLD POINT COMFORT — PILOT BOATS. 1 6 

as to get a satisfactory combination of speed and sea-going qualities. No. 3 of 
these boats is owned by the Maryland Association of Pilots, is twenty-six years 
old, and notwithstanding her long service is still in excellent condition, and 
can stand any amount of buffeting by old Neptune. The others, Nos. 2 and 
6, the William Starkey and Wm. A. Graves, belong to the Virginia Asso- 
ciation, and have both been well tested as to their sea-going qualities. The 
Starkey was formerly a Boston pilot boat and is now more than thirty-five years 
old. The Graves is ten years old, was built by a popular ship builder of Norfolk, 
after whom she is named. She has a "clean pair of heels," and in a fretting 
Nor 'wester can shake the plume of defiance at most any vessel that stretches 
canvas. Besides these sail- vessels, each association has a steam pilot boat, the 
"Pilot" of Baltimore and "Relief" of Norfolk. These steamers are thoroughly 
adapted to the business for which they are used and are a valuable addition to 
commerce. Both have powerful machinery and are available for a moderate 
compensation to render assistance to such ships as may be in distress. As an 
acknowledgment of their usefulness, and notwithstanding the big risk they run, 
the insurance company generously grants them a special rate of insurance, for by 
their presence off the Capes accidents, which might otherwise be of a serious 
nature, are considerably mitigated, thereby saving to the insurance companies 
and ship-owners many dollars. 

The sail boats have communication with them each day, carrying out pro- 



17 OLD POINT COMFORT — ELECTRIC RAILWAY. 

visions, mail, etc., and keep up the complement of pilots at the Capes. They 
can be seen sailing to and fro each day, and hundreds of Congressmen, State 
officers, and others have had delightful sails in them, and invariably leave im- 
pressed most favorably by the important nature of the service. 

The visitor may also notice a small steamer flying a yellow flag. This is the 
quarantine steamer, for the protection of such ports in Virginia as have no local 
quarantine stations. This branch of the service is under the supervision of 
Surgeon-General Hamilton at Washington, and has been in effect about eight 
years. The doctor on this boat is required to speak all vessels that may be 
suspicious in appearance, and inspect such as have yellow fever or any contagious 
disease on board. 

An electric railway has recently been finished between Old Point and the 
western suburbs of Hampton, a distance of four miles, and any one who may be 
limited in funds can for five cents ride the entire length of the line and see for 
little or nothing the various attractions in the vicinity of Hampton. This com- 
pany carries you over its route in a safe and speedy manner, and deserves the 
patronage of those who wish to avail themselves of this means of carriage. 

Besides the other attractions outside of the fort already named, there are 
government buildings, an arsenal, ordnance departments, etc.; but, as there is 
nothing in them differing from others of a similar character, I will give no descrip- 
tion of them. 




M 



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"*y.. - : ----- 




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CHAPEL, TROPHY PARK, ETC., FORT MONROE. 



OLD POINT COMFORT — BOATING, PISHING, BATHING, KTC. 1 9 

Boating, fishing, bathing, crabbing, etc., are among the attractions of this 
place, and many ladies in handsome attire may be seen catching the crustaceous 
denizens of the deep, regarding it as a source of diversion and no little fun. 
These monsters frequently escape from their confinement in boxes or baskets, for 
a little while causing consternation among the fair sex, and skirts were never 
more readily nor higher gathered to escape that dread terror (a mouse) of the 
female sex, than they are on account of this slow, paddling, helpless crab. 

Those who have money to throw away can extract much amusement from 
the dozen or more negro boys who hang about waiting for a scrambling match 
consequent upon the tossing up of a few pennies. And although these pennies in 
their downward course bury themselves inches in the loose sand, there is seldom 
one lost, the avaricious owners of the long, black, bony fingers plying them in 
an active and determined manner, until the last coin is extracted from its hiding 
place, the fortunate pickaninny holding it up, but tightly clenched within his 
fist, with a look of exultation. Then all are again on the alert. The change which 
takes place in the attitude of these boys after the last piece is found is indeed like 
magic. From stooping, digging, scrambling and scratching, they are suddenly 
converted into ebony statues of an upright posture, with an air of greedy expect- 
ancy which would look well on canvas. 

These little fellows search the beach for moonstones and other specimens. 
They have sharp, restless eyes, and find the pick of the beach, and are always 



20 OLD POINT COMFORT — HAMPTON ROADS. 

ready to barter their finds for reasonable prices. Amethysts, of no commercial 
value, but desirable as souvenirs, are occasionally found. These boys will, in 
all probability, one day be engaged in sailing some of the many " cunnus " 
(canoes) in which the visitors have their fishing frolics. 

Looking out on Hampton Roads we are filled with keenest interest and 
admiration for the various sights which meet our gaze in every direction. 
Yachts, merchant vessels and men-o'-war (the White Squadron frequently being 
seen here), boat drills, target practice, sham attacks on the fort are all seen. 

It is here that the navies of the world will rendezvous in '93, and it is safe to 
predict that both of the immense hotels, and the Sherwood, with their combined 
capacity for nearly three thousand guests, will be inadequate to the occasion. 
Hampton Roads never before nor since the great naval battle has been the centre 
of such keen interest as will be manifested on that great occasion. 

This is indeed a tribute to the harbor of Hampton Roads. But she merits 
every whit of it. She can and will give security to all that will then come, and 
afford them scope enough for their manoeuvres. 

The summer breezes prevail from the southwest during the night, some- 
times dying out by ten o'clock in the morning, but frequently lasting until noon ; 
then follows, as a rule, a calm or perhaps gentle zephyrs, which usually give 
place in the afternoon, from three to five o'clock, to a steady breeze from the 
southeast. This breeze comes to us fresh from the bosom of the Atlantic, and 





SCKNKS— OLD POINT COMFORT. 



OT<D POINT COMFORT — SEA AND I.AND BREEZES. 22 

is eagerly looked for by those who are familiar with the weather of this place, 
and by some is called "the doctor," on account of the consolation and cheer 
which it brings with it. The approach of ''the doctor" is noticeable sometimes 
half an hour before its arrival, and is recognized by a long dark streak on the 
water in the direction of the lighthouses at Cape Henry. This breeze gradually 
veers to the westward during the night, its movement being steady and unnoticed 
by the unobservent, until, in the morning, it is blowing directly out of Hampton 
Roads. The calm that follows need not discourage you, for the chances are 
there will be a change for the better in a few hours ; during the interim you may 
keep within doors, where it seldom gets so warm as to be oppressive. 

The above description of the sea and land breezes is consistent with season- 
able weather, but Old Point is visited by gales as well as gentle refreshing 
breezes, and the writer offers this explanation so as not to incur the censure of 
those whose fate it may be to have just the reverse. 

There is something peculiarly healthful in the climate of this place, and 
while I will not attempt to explain the sanitary conditions in full, I will advance 
one theory which may or may not be the life of it. Old Point is a sandy pen- 
insula, and this fact, together with surrounding favorable features, may explain 
all. There are no marshes, no pools of stagnant water, no imperfect system of 
sewerage to contend with. The garrison keeps the place scrupulously clean, and 
one enjoys more than comparative immunity from the attacks of different diseases. 



2 , OLD POINT COMFORT— FORT MONROE. 

Merchant vessels of all nations anchor in front of the hotels and await 
orders. Vessels with their thousands of tons of sugar, some with coffee and 
others with guano from west coast of South America (a distance of twelve 
thousand miles) call here and look for a favorable market for their cargoes, 
their owners or agents holding back for such a time before selling. Large light 
steamers call, pending negotiations for the transportation of some cargo, and in 
many instances they do not have to look further than the busy ports of Virginia, 
Norfolk being chief among them. 

INSIDE THE FORT. 

k OW having seen most that is of interest outside of the fort, we may stroll 
in and enjoy ourselves for an hour or two by inspecting some old relics of 
'76 and other things of interest. Entering the fort at the postern gate, we 
must follow the walkway which leads to the right, passing, not far from the entrance, 
the casemate in which Jefferson Davis was confined. Following this row of case- 
mates we come to one of the gravel slopes, at the top of which is a fiag-pole from 
which float the Stars and Stripes. Just here, around an angle in an obscure 
recess, is the officers' club. Now crossing over to the opposite side we follow 
that for a short distance and soon find ourselves with a full view of the barracks 
and parade ground. Here are seen soldiers in their various drills; "the bugle 



OLD POINT COMFORT — FORT MONROE. 24 

calls to arms," but it is a peaceful blast and hundreds are looking on in admira- 
tion. Fun-loving lawn tennis teams, made up largely by ladies of the fort, attract 
us, their flushed faces and flashing eyes being a dangerous charm for the male 
stoic . 

Under the ancient oaks to the right may be seen a glass inclosure, which 
looks much like a small conservatory, but an object of far different interest is 
herein sheltered from the action of the elements. A cannon of most ancient 
appearance, with evidences of dry rot about its wooden parts, and a card pendent 
from its nozzle with this explanation : ' ' Surrendered by the British at the capitu- 
lation of Saratoga, October 17th, 1777." 

Close by are other relics of '76 — four cannon and five siege mortars, some of 
the latter very old, one bearing the date of 1727, and all of composition metal. 
Surrounded by these is a large fifteen-inch mortar, which is also a relic of '76. 

Much target practice goes on during the summer, and many station them- 
selves in such a position as to be able to watch the process of loading, firing and 
the effects. The large fifteen-inch shell may, by keen eyes, if in rear of gun, be 
watched as they speed on, striking near the target and by their explosion sending 
clouds of spray one hundred feet in the air, resembling immense geysers, or per- 
haps recocheting, bounding, splashing, leaping from wave to wave until spent 
they sink to the bottom of the bay, where they find a bed for ages to come. 
These big smooth-bore guns make a deafening noise, accompanied by a shock 



25 OLD POINT COMFORT — FORT MONROE. 

which shakes every house on the Point. They are situated just at the north end 01 
water battery and weigh about fifty thousand pounds each. From this position 
we have a delightful view of Hampton Roads and Chesapeake Bay, and all seem 
to know that this is a good point for observing, and pause for a look around ; but 
our observations are not complete until we have walked around the ramparts, 
after which we should make our egress, thoroughly satisfied with our walk, taking 
in on our return the museum, in which may be seen some things of interest. 

There are about eight magazines inside this fort, each angle of the casemates 
being one, and about two thousand pounds of powder stored in each. Although 
in winter, when so much is not needed, the supply may be much less. Sober, 
reliable men are selected for entering these magazines, and while in there must 
wear slippers or shoes of some soft material, such as cotton-duck, buckskin or 
rubber. Gravel, dirt, etc. , are carefully excluded. There are, including officers and 
soldiers, nearly four hundred in this fort; about forty of that number are officers. 

Those who are fond of sailing can be accommodated by one of the many 
small craft anchored in front of the hotel. They are manned by expert boatmen 
and you will be quite safe with them, but I counsel all to "keep a weather eye 
open " anyhow. A sail over to the Rip Raps, which is about three-quarters of a 
mile from Old Point, will be quite interesting, and while there is nothing of 
special note, it is just the place for a party \hi\t is bent on fun and frolic and who 
want the whole world to themselves. 




GflTLING Pf<9-C9/!»<»RF01.rVVfl- 



THE PHCEBUS MANSION, NEAR OLD POINT COMFORT, VA. 



EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — THE RIP RAPS. 27 

Following is a description of this fort, together with other features of interest 
on our route to Norfolk. 

UP THE ELIZABETH. 

^^HE writer presumes that all who possibly can, are desirous of visiting this, 
\*J the greatest city of Virginia. The facilities for reaching Norfolk are excel- 
lent. Visitors can leave Old Point on either the Baltimore or Washington 
line about seven A.M., but even one's zeal to see and learn will not always induce 
them to rise so early. Therefore I advise you to take the nine o'clock boat, which 
seldom changes her schedule, being run so as to accommodate the larger number 
who find it more convenient to leave at that hour. One of the steamers of the Old 
Dominion line makes this trip, the " L,uray " being generally on the route, and 
occupies about fifty minutes between points. There are from five to six trips made 
each way daily by the different lines, and no inconvenience will be experienced by 
those who have any reasonable amount of time at their disposal. 

Taking our departure from Old Point, we will notice to our left and about 
three-quarters of a mile distant, a small island (already alluded to), which the 
visitor will at once recognize as a fortification of some kind. Fort Wool, or, as it 
is more commonly called, the Rip Raps, is an artificial island, whose foundation 

is laid in about twelve feet of water. On the south side there is a channel of 

c 



28 RN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — THE RIP RATS. 

thirteen feet (high water), while the north side drops off abruptly to seventy-five 
feet. This fort is built entirely of granite brought here many years ago from 
Maine. A visit to it will remind one of a stone quarry. The government, when 
they first began building this fort, probably thought they were going to have a 
second Gibraltar, but its stone walls cannot resist the ordnance of modern make, 
and it is probable that the flying fragments resulting therefrom would be the cause 
of as much havoc as the explosion of one of the big shells. But who can say that 
the government will not, at some time in the near future, make this place, worth- 
less as it now stands, almost impregnable? Men-o'-war have, at the cost of 
millions, their steel sides, and why not an experiment of a similar nature here ? 
The portions to be protected would not require more than enough armor for two 
ships. The work would be simple and almost indestructible, and could not, like 
a ship in sinking, carry hundreds of souls down with it. 

There is a gradual settling of this place, amounting to a few inches since built, 
but the writer is of the opinion that it has about reached its stopping point, and is 
now in condition for its second and final weight of armament. It is not garrisoned, 
nor has it in any way ever paid for itself. It was used during the war as a prison, 
and the Northern army had one eight-inch cannon with which they sought to harass 
the Confederate battery stationed at Sewel's Point, but, as the Confederates could 
not be correctly located, the idea of dislodging them by this plan was soon given 
up. 



FN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — FISHING GROUND. 29 

Visitors to this island can, by drawing slightly on their imagination, easily 
feel much like Robinson Crusoe on his lonely island, and if, as Milton says, 

" Solitude is sometimes best society," 

we can, if so disposed, have it here to our entire satisfaction, for on this island 
there is but one human being, and that a watchman, who receives from the govern- 
ment nine hundred dollars per year for his services. But just what those services 
comprise it is difficult to imagine, as there are no guns to care for, nor any 
movables to attract poachers. But, at any rate, "the laborer is worthy of his 
hire." He obeys instructions, sticks to his post, and by his extreme isolation 
earns all he gets from Uncle Sam. I have alluded to the lonely feeling which 
impresses one here, and if in the open air you fail to feel the force of this you 
may, if you ever visit this place, take a peep into some of its dark recesses, case- 
mates and magazines, but more closely resembling dungeons, safe places for 
troublesome prisoners. South of this fort, and within a few yards of it, is first 
class fishing ground, and many fine specimens of that great Virginia delicacy (the 
hog fish) are caugh there. But that which is choice fishing ground to-day may be 
just the reverse to-morrow. The finny tribe evidently seems to know "how the 
wind blows," and their haunt of to-day may another time be the resort only of 
impatient and disappointed fisherman who get ' ' nary ' ' a bite from a good " un ' ' but 
many worrying nibbles from saucy minnows, that are game enough to bite but 



30 EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — C. & O. GRAIN ELEVATOR, ETC. 

can't or won't catch on. This condition of affairs is worrying, the frolic is all at 
the other end of the line, and the best thing to do after a fair trial of one place is 
to look for another, where with tolerable luck you may have such a catch as to 
be able, upon your return, to give your bantering friends something more than 
mere bones and scales to eat. 

But we are now approaching two black buoys on our port (left) bow and 
about one mile and a quarter from Rip Raps. For the benefit of the uninitiated 
I will explain these and other beacons. The bell buoy is placed there as a night 
and foggy weather signal to those who are navigating Hampton Roads. The 
other is also a beacon, but is useful principally during fair weather. The bell or 
skeleton buoy is rung by the action of the tide and waves. An iron ball resting 
on a plane with shallow grooves radiating from its centre rolls from side to side, 
tints keeping up its continual warning ; the force and frequency of its alarms in- 
creasing or diminishing in proportion to the strength of the tide and waves. 
Now if the atmosphere is clear we may look abruptly to our right and see out- 
lined against the sky a large building with the letters C. & O. Ry. on its side. 
This is the big elevator at Newport News, and the letters you see are forty-eight 
feet in diameter. The O is large enough to encircle an ordinary dwelling. This 
building is four and a quarter miles from us. 

To our left we see Sewel's Point. It was here, right over the sand embank- 
ment, the Confederates had a battery stationed during the war. A hotel once 







1 1 L i 


- 

1 ^jjfc^L '| T 




i *£ - _ 


j ^ * 






_ .;!!L| 
a* ■ 3b U R A Y.I TjH i i 






^'^hnpMPMHW 






'•■■» -IJSP'i.'Jv 









PEAMER LURAV OF OLD DOMINION LINE. 
Runs between Hampton, Old Point and Norfolk. 



EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — WIEEOUGHBY SPIT, OCEAN VIEWS, ETC. 32 

flourished and excursion parties from Norfolk and Portsmouth frequented it, but 
a fire, supposed to be of incendiary origin, destroyed it thirteen years ago, and 
the point has since been of no consequence. Steamers stopped occasionally for 
freight in the trucking season, but even the wharf, which was used for that pur- 
pose, is gone, having been swept away by a gale. 

Just before getting to Sewel's Point a small neck of land is noticeable pro- 
truding from the main land and pointing in the direction of the Rip Raps. This 
is Willoughb3 r 's Spit, a peninsula somewhat in the form of a crescent. Part of 
this place has been selected by the Government for the purpose of erecting coast 
defenses, torpedo stations, etc., and some Norfolk capitalists realizing the future 
importance of it, have secured many acres, which they divided into building lots, 
their intention being to make of it a summer resort, where one can have a cottage 
in a locality almost surrounded by water. Here we have a full view of Hampton 
Roads and are very near Ocean View, one of Norfolk's popular resorts. Over 
two hundred lots have been sold ($100 to $500 each) and about sixty purchasers 
purpose building this summer. As soon as the Government begins its improve- 
ments, the great N. & W. R. R. will extend its track to that place, and it will 
undoubtedly prove a success. These lots are sold on easy terms, further particu- 
lars of which may be had of Smith & Pannill, 96 Main Street, Norfolk, Virginia. 

From Sewel's Point there is nothing to claim our attention until we come to 
Bnsh Bluff lightship, an extremely odd-looking vessel, evidently staunch enough 



33 EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — OYSTER BEDS. 

to resist the most vicious attacks of wind and waves. This is another conveni- 
ence for those who are navigating the river. The large bell which you see is rung 
during foggy weather while waiting to get up steam, when the well-polished brass 
whistle is then used for giving forth its warning sounds. The noise of this 
whistle sounds not unlike the deep baying of a hound in the distance, when on 
the trail of a fox. These blasts are heard for miles and the ship actually vibrates 
from them. The large skeleton balls at her mastheads are day marks and desig- 
nate the character of the vessel, and lanterns, one at each end, are run up between 
the masts and uprights for a guide at night. She has a crew of ten men. 

Now we are passing between oyster beds, some natural and others artificial. 
Those we see near the channel are natural. The cultivated beds are further in 
shore, and marked by stakes. On either hand we will notice many canoes with 
about two occupants each. They are on beds common to all, and get for their 
choice oysters $1.25 per bushel, the smaller ones selling for as little as thirty to 
forty cents per bushel. These men are engaged in their business about eight 
months out of the year, the law prohibiting them from being taken up except in 
limited quantities during summer, when it is the oyster's spawning time. There 
is a general saying that oysters are not fit to be eaten in any month that has not 
an " R " in it. It follows from this that they are really palatable eight months of 
the twelve. That seems to be, indeed, a long season, but many lovers of the 
oyster enjoy them the year round. Inshore of these natural beds are others that 




RUINS OF OLD JAMESTOWN CHURCH, ERECTED ABOUT 1614. 



EN ROUTK TO NORFOLK — LAMBERT'S POINT. 35 

are private property, and here and there dotting the water are small houses, in 
which the watchmen live, who receive about thirty dollars per month for their 
services. They are provided with repeating rifles of the most improved make, and 
will not hesitate to open fire on those who may attempt poaching. The State 
receives twenty-five cents a year for the right to each acre of such beds. The 
oyster industry of Virginia is immense, and the cultivation of them serves to 
replenish the rapidly disappearing oyster of the natural beds. 

To the right we see an island on which are several buildings, some red and 
others yellow. This is Craney Island, is a government reservation and used for 
the storage of powder. 

On either side of us are beautiful farms, on which are raised vegetables and 
fruits of nearly every description Many varieties of the delicious strawberry are 
grown in immense quantities, and the farmers, on account of their proximity to 
Norfolk, and its unsurpassed transportation facilities, are among the most pros- 
perous in the country. 

LAMBERT'S POINT. 

8UT nothing will so delight the capitalist and man of practical ideas as the 
sight which now opens up before him. Involuntarily his thoughts are 
diverted from the curious and historical to the immense piers which he sees 
to his left. This is the terminus of the Norfolk and Western Railroad, with its 



$6 EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — LAMBERT'S POINT. 

great coaling station. The first pier is used for the shipment of coal, and is five- 
eighths of a mile long, and one of the finest structures of its kind in the world. 
It will accommodate six large ships at one time. It was built six years ago, and 
its success was assured from the start. But the increasing demands for this steam 
coal necessitated the building of another, which is even finer that the first. 
Owing to an unprecedented shipment of grain during the past winter, this pier 
was used to a great extent for loading ships with this cargo, while the third and 
upper one has groaned under its loads of general merchandise. All of which are 
evidences not in the least visionary of the vast importance of Norfolk as a shipping 
centre. 

Lambert's Point exported in 1891 to foreign and domestic ports, 1,407,588 
tons of coal, which was an increase over the preceding year of more than a quarter 
of a million tons, and aggregated $4,574,661.00 in value. This coal is mined in 
Taswell County, in the western part of Virginia, is brought nearly four hundred 
miles and sold for the extremely reasonable price of $3.25 per ton, English meas- 
urement. It is from the famous Pocahontas mines, and unsurpassed by any steam 
coal in the world. The mines are owned and operated by American and English 
capitalists, and the Lambert's Point division is under the superintendence of Col. 
Win. Lamb, who is one of Norfolk's most popular and useful citizens. Steam- 
ships of all nations, from ports south of us call here on their way across the 
Atlantic for this coal, and the writer knows it has a world wide reputation and 



EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — THE VIRGINIA. 37 

gives unbounded satisfaction. Colonel Lamb has succeeded in building up for this 
place an immense and healthy trade. Steamships, barges, schooners and vessels 
of every description are seen anchored off the pier, awaiting their turn to load, and 
frequently so many as to require skillful navigation in avoiding them. 

Other improvements, including docks for merchandise and an elevator for 
grain, will soon be built. The land between Lambert's Point and Norfolk has 
been bought up by various capitalists (many English) at an average price of $i ,000 
per acre, has been neatly laid off in squares and divided into lots. Most of this 
vicinity is perfectly level, and admirably adapted for building on without the 
expense of grading, filling up, etc. 

Directly opposite to these piers and within a stone's throw of our route, lie 
the bones of the Confederate gun boat " Virginia." History is replete with des- 
criptions of the career of this famous craft, and all will be pleased to know they 
have seen the exact spot where she was set fire to and blown up. The magazine 
exploded with such force as to shake Norfolk to its very centre. 

Opposite to Lambert's Point and situated at the mouth of a beautiful stream 
is the Atlantic and Danville Railroad; then to our right, one and a half miles 
distant, more piers and the terminus of the Norfolk and Carolina Railroad. Both 
of these roads are growing in importance, and the N. & C. already has a business 
of considerable magnitude. A little further on to our left is Port Norfolk, it is 
not garrisoned, nor is it put to much use. Some years ago it was used as a maga- 



3'S EN ROUTE TO NORFOLK — NAVAL HOSPITAL- 

zine, but the people of Norfolk petitioned for its removal to Craney Island, which 
place is now used for that purpose, and the citizens of Norfolk breathe more free. 
The night of the day Virginia seceded, Ex-Governor Henry A. Wise, who was 
in Richmond at that time, sent a dispatch to William H. Parker, Chief Slave 
Inspector of Norfolk, to seize the powder of this magazine and proceed to Rich- 
mond. This was intrusted to Capt. William H. Face, a citizen of Norfolk and a 
gallant fire laddie of that day, and the scheme successfully carried out. Approach- 
ing the keeper's house, and knocking at the door they were met by the keeper, 
who, refusing to deliver up the keys, was put under arrest, the magazine entered, 
as much of the powder as wanted placed on board of a barge, and before morning 
dawned the expedition was well on its way up James River, out of the reach of a 
vessel which was dispatched from Washington to prevent just .such an occurrence. 

To our left and not more than half a mile is the Naval Hospital, a large 
white building, with its beautiful grove of pines for a back-ground, and in sum- 
mer, when you are most likely to see it, you will not hesitate to pronounce it 
beautiful. Few harbors have right at their entrance such an attraction as this, 
and the water front, the docks, etc., of Norfolk compare most favorably with 
some of the greatest ports in the United States. 

Now we will land in Norfolk, inspecting first some of its curious features, 
after which the practical may follow me in other matters. He is probably think- 
ing of dollars and cents, and we will presently gratify him. 




NORFOLK HARBOR, PROM ATLANTIC HOTEL. 



fopfolk. 



CURIOUS. 

(ORFOLK and environs are rich in historical interest, yet there is not much 
for the lover of the curious and antique to see. The ravages of fire and 
wars having destroyed most of the old buildings and other relics of his- 
torical interest. New buildings, beautiful architectural specimens, have been 
constructed, many enterprises set on foot, until now she is rising like that fabled 
bird from her own ashes and rapidly assuming the garb and dignity of a most 
modern city. 

Upon our arrival in Norfolk we may enter one of the carriages that are ever 
on hand and proceed on our tour of inspection, passing almost immediately at the 
wharf an insignificant-looking building with a large advertisement of Pocahontas 
coal occupying a conspicuous position on one of its sides. The advertisement is 
most appropriate, and the picture is familiar to all. The heroine, Pocahontas, 

D 



41 NORFOLK. 

throws herself between the prisoner, John Smith, and the uplifted club and inter- 
cedes with her father for his life. Powhatan, stern, crafty chieftain, yields to his 
daughter's entreaties and bids the prisoner go in safety. As we look at the rough, 
time-worn building of this busy firm, we can scarcely realize that in 1S91 they 
shipped 1,407,000 tons of this excellent steam coal. But so well established is 
this firm that outside show or demonstration of any kind is not required. 

We are now approaching St. Paul's Church. Here at least is one relic 
worthy of interest, one place which has stood through all the varying fortunes of 
this seaport town, and when we reflect that it is the only building left standing 
after the firing of Norfolk by the English, we naturally associate the circumstance 
with that divine prophecy, "My house shall stand forever;" and it has stood 
since 1739, being now over one hundred and fifty years old. This building is 
situated on Church Street, not far from Main, and as we approach it from this 
direction and notice the ivy-covered walls, its picturesque appearance in general, 
we are involuntarily attracted by a clear place in the ivy on the south wing and 
protruding from the wall a cannon ball, which is a relic of '76. 

Many old monuments are seen within the grounds. Immediately at the 
entrance and to our right is a slab to the memory of 

"Elizabeth, wife to the Honorable Nathaniel Bacon, 
who departed this life the second day of November, 
one thousand, six hundred and ninety one." 



ST. PAUL'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 42 

This slab is next to the oldest in there, and the name will be recognized as one of 
historic fame. Jnst to the right of the entrance to the church is an unattractive 
stone, sacred to the memory of Sarah Singleton, with the following lines: 

" The Cyprus and yew trees have gloom, 

And the willow trees have sadness express, 
But Jesus arose from the tomb, 

And enlightens the painful egress." 

Not very old or curious, but so expressive of a Christian resignation. 

On the south end of the church, fastened to the wall, is an old and curious slab : 

Heere licth the body of Wm. Harris 

who departed this life 8th day of Mch, i68|. 

Attached is a metal plate, which explains that "this slab was brought from 
Weyanoke on James river, and was found amid the ruins of an old colonial 
church. ' ' This is a curiosity on account of the date, or rather the manner in which 
it is given. This was about the time a change was made in the calendar, and 
[68b may have meant 1688 under one system and 1687 under the other. There 
are other theories, and those who read this are at liberty to explain the matter if 
they can. 

Then about twelve feet to the right of this another : 

"Heere lyeth the body of Dorothy Farrcll, 
Who deceased the [8th of Jan. 1673." 



43 NORFOLK. 

This is the oldest slab we find in here, being two hundred and nineteen years 
old and with letters that are still plainly legible. Near the chapel this one: 

"To the memory of Thomas Ritchie late shipmaster, born in 
Ayreshire Scotland aged 30, died in the year 1784." 

Attached to west wall of inclosure, and to John Smith, this : 

For great departed worth with pious care 
Lamenting friends an early tomb prepare 
To virtue sacred : — In each sorrowing breast 
With lasting colors memory paints the rest. 

To the left of this, in southwest corner, a monument to Josiah Hodges, Jr., 
born November 12th, 1774; died May 10th, 1799, and these affectionate lines: 

"Here rests a youth whose breast while life was there 
Glowed with fraternal love and filial care 
A sun bright ray from truth's clear mirror throvyn 
On his young head with faith and honor shone 
Whilst honest worth on modest merits plan 
Marked the few years that ripened him to man 

The peaceful virtues loved with him to roam 

In his fond heart each duty found a home 

And when oppressive death chilled his warm breath 

And said depart, Fraternal love went last 




NAVAL HOSPITAL, PORTSMOUTH, VA. 



ST. PAUl/S EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 45 

In vain gay comfort lends her light of peace 
In vain she bids the streaming sorrows cease 
The day revolves but with each day appears 
A brother's, sister's, and a mother's tears 
While the sad father views this stone and cries 
When such friends part 'tis the survivor dies." 

A youth to fortune and to fame unknown, but who by his many virtues won 
the undying love of his sorrowing relatives. 

Returning again to the gate where we entered we can count to the third tree 
on our left, and close by see a stone which is placed as a monument to the two 
wives of William Cowper, one died June 29th, 18 10, aged 28 ; the other March 
4th, 181 3, aged 23, and these lines: 

"Behold the grave how low I lie 
As you are now so once was I. 
But as I am so must you be 
Prepare for death and follow me. ' ' 

Simple rhyming yet a most solemn and striking admonition. 

But in looking at these monuments to the dead, some of which are very old 
and others curious, we should not overlook the one erected by the "Children's 
Aid Society of St. Paul's Church," "to the memory of their beloved pastor, 



46 NORFOLK. 

Nicholas A. Okeson who for twenty six years was the pastor of this church, and 
dearly beloved by all who knew him." On the plain granite shaft which rises at 
the head of the grave are these simple words : 

" An earnest and zealous minister of the gospel of Christ and for 
twenty six years the faithful and beloved rector of this parish." 

" They that turn many to righteousness 
Shall shine as the stars." 

" Hold fast the form of sacred words which thou hast heard of me 
in faith and love which is in Christ Jesus." — 2 Timothy, i ch. 13 v. 

It is said that twenty-five thousand bodies are buried here, and it is impossi- 
ble to dig far into the earth without unearthing human bones. 

Standing in a clear space just a short distance northeast of the chapel there 
are visible seven churches. 

The chancel rail of the chapel is the old one taken from the church a few 
months ago when work was begun, for the purpose of restoring it to its original 
appearance. Now the interior, with its beautiful stained windows and tastefully 
frescoed walls, is soft and refined, and one feels like resting for a while in a place 
with such an inviting appearance. Then we go into the vestry-room ; see there a 
photograph of Rev. Nicholas A. Okeson, a picture of St. Paul's Church as it 
originally was, surmounted by four crosses, and a real curiosity is the chair in 



ST. PAUl/S EPISCOPAL, CHURCH. 47 

which John Hancock sat when he signed the Declaration of Independence. On 

an arm of it is a silver plate with this inscription : 

"This chair was occupied by John Hancock when he signed the 
Declaration of Independence. It was bought by Col. Thos. M. 
Bayley, of Accomack, Va. At his death it became the property 
of his daughter Ann, who subsequently intermarried with the 
Rev. Benjamin M. Miller, of St. Paul's Church, Norfolk, Va., 
who presented it to the parish." 

It is of walnut, upholstered in material of a red color. 

St. Paul's Church was erected in 1739, restored and consecrated in 1832, 
reoccupied 1865, and repaired, which amounts to a second restoration, 1892. 

A list of clergy of Elizabeth River Parish and St. Paul's Church, Norfolk, 
from 1637 to 1892 : 

Rev. John Wilson 1637 Rev. Ebenezer Boyden 1833-35 

" William Nern 1680 Rt. Rev. Thomas Atkinson 1837-8 

" James Falconer 1722 Rev. P. B. Wilmer (temporary) .... 1838 

" Mr. Gar/.ia 1724 " Benjamin M. Miller 1845-9 

" Moses Robertson 1734 " Deonidas T. Smith (temporary) . .1845 

" Charles Smith 1749-61 " David Caldwell 1845-9 

" Thomas Davis 1773-6 " William M. Jackson 1849-55 

" Walker Maury [786-8 " Nicholas A. Okeson 1856-82 

" James Whitehead 1789-1800 " Beverly D. Tucker 1882- 

" William Bland 1791 



4S NORFOLK. 

ITS HARBOR. 



« 



HERE are four features necessary to the success of a seaport, and no city 
_ ' can ever become reall} T great in commerce if lacking either. These four 
features are, its nearness to the sea, a safe harbor, capital and enterprising 
citizens. The nearness to the sea and safe harbor come first, for without these 
capital and enterprise would avail little. First then Norfolk is convenient to the 
sea, being only twenty-five-and-a-half miles distant. There are no shifting sand 
bars over which ships have to thump, as they do in many parts of the world, and 
in some of these places vessels of large draught partly load in port and then put 
to sea outside the bar to take on the balance of the cargo. This is a serious 
inconvenience, because under these circumstances ships do not always have even 
comparative immunity from gales. Another disadvantage to such places as have 
these shifting sand shoals at their entrance is that it sends up the rate of insur- 
ance (all honest companies proportioning their rates to the amount of risk), and 
this necessarily involves the paying of more freight, which must come out of 
some one. Under these circumstances merchants have to offer inducements of 
this nature, so as to enable the ship-owner to put on a full rate of insurance or 
else compensate him by giving more freight for the extra risk which he himself 
may assume. It might be inferred that the consumers have it to pay, and weighty 
arguments in support of this theory be advanced, but it is reasonable to suppose 



--^\ 




NORFOLK HARBOR. 



NORFOLK — ITS HARBOR. 50 

that such people as have these disadvantages must, in order to get a profit for 
themselves, secure their goods at a cheaper figure from the producer than those 
who have no such drawbacks, because two cargoes of grain shipped from separate 
Atlantic ports to the same place in Europe will (quality being equal) naturally 
command the same price, although one (both being same size) may cost one thou- 
sand dollars more to get it there. 

Now both of these cargoes are put on the market, one costing a thousand 
dollars more than the other, which loss has to be borne by some one. The con- 
sumer does not pay for the difference, because the more expensive cargo of the 
two has to be put on the market in competition with the cheaper ; therefore there 
is one most reasonable conclusion and that is the producer and merchant must 
compromise on profits, or the loss be thrown on one or the other of them. In 
either case it is a losing game, and those who are trying, under adverse circum- 
stances, to compete with more favored localities, should give up the unsatisfactory 
struggle, establish themselves at a place blessed with natural advantages, secure 
for themselves a healthy business and give the producer the benefit of larger 
profits. 

A harbor, so as to give safety to shipping, should have a depth of water 
sufficient to allow ships to ride at anchor without taking the bottom. It should 
be land-locked, so as to prevent long rollers from setting in, should be free of 
rocks and damrerous obstructions of all kinds, and have such river-bed as will 



51 NORFOLK — ITS HARBOR. 

securely hold the anchors and the great ships moored to them. Anchors do 
not hold well on sandy bottom, and extremely soft mud is almost as bad. Some- 
thing between the two is necessary, and Norfolk harbor has it. A muddy bottom 
admirably suited for holding, and particularly safe in case of grounding, is a 
favorable feature of this port, and a twenty-six foot channel, which permits the 
passage of a twenty-seven foot ship right up to the very doors of the warehouses, 
is another. It has no rocks, and ships are not apt to have great gaping wounds 
in their steel sides on that account. Freezing up is a great drawback to some 
ports, and this has occurred only once for fifty years or more, and that was thirty- 
six years ago. About twelve years ago a few inches of ice formed between 
Sewel's Point and Norfolk, but it was of short duration and not of such a nature 
as to seriously inconvenience the great iron merchant-vessels of this da}'. 

I may here fittingly illustrate the advantage of Norfolk in this one particular, 
by informing you that steamers from Southern ports, calling here for bunker coal, 
on their way to foreign countries, have in winter a much lower rate of insurance 
than would be granted them if they called at Sydney, Cape Britain ; or Halifax, 
Nova Scotia, and other points north of us, instead of stopping here. This is a 
distinction in favor of Norfolk which requires no further comment; secondly, its 
nearness to the sea is another important consideration, as "time is money" is 
thoroughly true in regard to shipping, and when we consider the cost of running 
one of these great ships for twenty-four hours, we can see the advantage of being 



NORFOLK — DEVELOPMENTS. 52 

near the sea. Take, for instance, an average size "tramp" steamer of 1800 tons, 
with crew of thirty-five men, their wages and food for one day. The consumption 
of $70 (some of the old ships double this) worth of coal in that time, and putting 
the ship's value at $150,000, and allowing six per cent, on that amount invested, 
we have $25 per day more to consider, then oil and waste for machinery, natu- 
ral wear and tear, etc., and we can do some more figuring . Send such a ship, 
with a speed of nine knots per hour, to a place one hundred and eight miles from 
sea, and it requires twelve hours to make the trip each way, or for going and 
returning, one day. Now see what it costs to run this ship for that time, 
figure on all the expense you can (you are sure to omit something) and then find 
the difference in favor of one of two ports, one situated one hundred and eight 
miles from sea and the other only twenty-five and a half. It is simple proportion 
and needs no further explanation to convince any one that the difference is largely 
to the advantage of the port which is nearer the sea. Third, Norfolk has capital- 
ists, and they are coming in every day, men who have studied the seaports of the 
world, of broad vie,ws and varied experience and who, by the confidence which 
they manifest in this place by the expenditure of hundreds of thousands of dollars 
in different industries, encourage others to take more than a superficial look at 
her natural advantages. Some of these capitalists have bought up many acres of 
suburban Norfolk, and where a tract of land containing one hundred acres could 
have been bought five years ago for $1,000 per acre, a single building lot, 



53 NORFOLK — DEVELOPMENTS. 

30 x 150, of this same tract, will now command from $500 to $1,500, and beauti- 
ful residences, some of brownstone and granite fronts, have been built. 

Undoubtedly those who earnestly desire to see and understand these improve- 
ments, with a view to possibly becoming an investor, will be courteously 
instructed by prominent and disinterested citizens of Norfolk, who will, with 
pardonable pride, give information concerning not only one organization, one 
land company, one business firm, but of the city in general. 

The fourth great condition for the success of a place is an enterprising spirit 
among its citizens, for without this the natural advantages already enumerated — 
nearness to sea, perfect harbor, etc. — would be lost. Norfolk is not lacking in this 
respect, she is the home of broad-minded, sensible men, under whose influence 
she is thriving most satisfactorily. These men, with their different business 
organizations, are constantly on the alert. Norfolk's Chamber of Commerce, 
Cotton Exchange, Business Men's Association, etc., are all composed of men of 
vast experience, who know just what they are doing and guard with ever watch- 
ful eyes the community's welfare, and protect from unreasonable and selfish 
attacks of prejudiced and less favored people such useful branches as are immedi- 
ately identified with the welfare of the city in general. 

Beside advantages already named, Norfolk has one of the most thoroughly- 
equipped and efficient pilot organizations in the world, and no port is really great 
without one, for by the safe conduct of ships, these men keep the wheels of 




-JL. 






ST. PAUL'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH, ERECTED r 
Present Rector, Beverly D. Tucker, Norfolk, Va. 



NORFOLK — QUARANTINE SERVICE. 55 

commerce steadily moving, prevent enormous loss to shipping, reduce to a mini- 
mum the risk of ship owners and cause everything in connection with commerce to 
glide smoothly along. "The Englehardt Series of Norfolk," in alluding to these 
men, says, "The Virginia Pilots' Association, chartered by the State, has thirty- 
two members, and is represented here by O. E. Edwards, who has been its resi- 
dent agent for the last seventeen years. 

' ' It is now a hundred years since the Old Dominion established its stringent 
regulations for the apprenticeship and government of pilots, and with scarcely an 
exception, those who have been received among the chosen few, after the usual 
probation, have proven themselves skillful, discreet and clever in their business. 
Certainly since Congress confided the matter of pilotage to the Seaboard States, 
in 1879, those of Virginia compare with any of the others. The pilots of Nor- 
folk and adjacent ports have all passed a strict examination and been licensed by 
the State Board of Pilot Commissioners. Their headquarters, at which Mr. 
Edwards is located, are at 123 Main Street. He is an old pilot himself, a native 
of the coast, and experienced in the vocation before and during the war and the 
day of blockades, the latter a period calculated to test a man thoroughly for the 
pursuit. A number of others belonging to the association were also in service at 
the same time." 

An efficient quarantine service is one of the most important requirements for 
a well-regulated seaport. Seaports of consequence have communication with 



56 NORFOLK — QUARANTINE SERVICE. 

vessels from all parts of the world, and many of these foreign countries are 
periodically visited by yellow fever and other contagious diseases and require this 
safeguard, and to have it on convenient and safe principles, it is necessary to have 
those at its head who are discreet and can distinguish between real and imaginary 
danger, so as on one hand not to compel ships to undergo unnecessary inconveni- 
ence and on the other to secure the inhabitants of a place against the introduction 
from unhealthy ports of any such disease. Norfolk's Board of Health is com- 
posed of some of its best citizens, who take every reasonable precaution against 
this danger, and for the marine part of it they have appointed Dr. W. A. Thorn. 
This measure of protection is kept up the year round, and all vessels that come 
direct from a foreign port must in every case stop for inspection before proceeding 
to the city. The system here is thorough, the delay inconsiderable (a ship seldom 
waiting longer than it takes one to await his turn in a physician's office) and is a 
safeguard which cannot be reasonably dispensed with. These ships are, in the 
first place, boarded at Cape Henry, the approach to Norfolk, by the pilots, who 
are the sentinels or outer pickets, and who from time to time receive from the 
quarantine officer such instructions as are consistent with the ship's dispatch and 
welfare of others. Dr. Thorn is a cultured, courteous gentleman, is very popular 
in the community, has a thorough and practical knowledge of quarantine require- 
ments, ever watchful for the interests of all, zealously guarding the port from the 
introduction of contagious diseases, yet never causing unnecessary delay to 




HKAIYINOWAY SCHOOL, TOWN POINT AND POST-OFFICE. 



NORFOLK. 5S 

commerce. Besides service in other places Dr. Thorn has been in charge here 
about six years, an evidence of his efficiency as a quarantine officer. 

THE WATER FRONT. 

^)^HE water front of Norfolk is strikingly neat and clean in appearance for a 
fO place that does so much shipping, and man}- new and handsome docks, 
showing its recent growing importance, have been constructed in order to 
meet the great demand for wharf room, of which she already has a liberal supply. 
And besides the front within corporate limits there are two and a half miles on 
each side of the river, between Lambert's Point pier, which is shoal-locked and 
perfectly suited for docks, making in all seven miles of the best pier sites the 
the world affords; and if Norfolk, in her future greatness, should require more 
than this, it can be easily doubled with comparatively little expense. Desirable 
water front is necessary for the accommodation of commerce, and Norfolk not 
only has her share of it, but is really pretty and attractive. 

It is indeed a suggestive sight to see the numerous ships of various rigs and 
nationalities stringing its wharves, with schooners, tugboats, pungies and river- 
boats to fill in, and people might wonder where all the produce conies from, but 
when yon know that Norfolk is the terminus of six railroads, connecting with all 
the great systems of the country, drawing most heavily on the South for cotton, 



59 NORFOLK. 

cotton-seed meal, oil cake, lumber, tobacco, etc., and on the West for grain, flour, 
minerals, etc., the bulk of which goes to foreign countries; when yon know 
something about her great inland commerce, and the immense coasting business 
done, yon will not wonder at the activity which is shown here. 

TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. 

|ORFOL,K including Portsmouth has a population of 60,000 and a steady and 
healthy growth, it is a second New York, on a smaller scale. She is 
known the world over as a cotton port of great importance, and the ship- 
ment ( foreign and coastwise) of over 10,000,000 bales of that commodity since the 
war fully justifies the reputation. And besides this, the principal export, there are 
others that seem destined to compete with this product, which has for so long been 
the king of Norfolk's commerce. The Norfolk and Western, Sea Board and 
Roanoke, and other roads are constantly making connections with great systems 
south and west, and large quantities of commodities heretofore scarce thought of 
here, are now delivered at her doors, and sometimes tax the shippers to their utmost 
to rid the docks and warehouses of it. L,ast winter there was an enormous increase 
in the shipment of grain, amounting to several million dollars, and now another 
elevator is to be constructed at Lambert's Point, so as to facilitate the handling of it. 

In addition to these large foreign exports, Norfolk has an immense coasting 
business. The magnificent steamers of the Merchant and Miner's Transportation 



NORFOLK — TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. 60 

Company plying between here, Boston, Providence and ports south. Of this line 
there are nine coasting steamships, aggregating between twelve and thirteen 
thousand tons net. These ships are fast and commodious, and make the trip 
between here and Boston, a distance of six hundred miles, in a little less than two 
days. Then come the Old Dominion Company's steamships, staunch, noble 
vessels of " handsome speed," are as safe as any in the world, and run between 
here, New York, and other points. The distance between Norfolk and New York 
is nearly three hundred miles, and is covered in twenty to twenty -two hours. 
There are eight ships of this line, with sixteen thousand tons (net) capacity. 
Those who desire a trip outside will be perfectly safe on the ships of both these 
lines, and will be nicely cared for in the way of comforts and luxuries. 

During trucking season these vessels, with full cargoes of strawberries, pota- 
toes, watermelons, etc., leave Norfolk for their respective ports. And in addition 
to these there are many others, the Clyde line between Norfolk and Philadel- 
phia, three elegant steamers between here and Baltimore, carrying passengers, 
mail and freight, and two fast and magnificent passenger steamers to Washington, 
D. C. All of them carry immense quantities of country produce, and frequently 
have all they can manage. Other steamers, sound and river boats, steamers 
running to Petersburg, Richmond, City Point, Old Point, Newport News, Hamp- 
ton, etc. A trip up the James is pleasant. It is the most historic river in this 
hemisphere, and should claim a large share of the tourist's attention. 



6l NORFOLK — TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. 

With the cotton, grain, lumber and other shipments in winter, and the truck- 
ing in summer, the docks of Norfolk seldom present an idle appearance. It is the 
boast of this city, and may be interesting to the stranger to know that Norfolk 
handles one-fifteenth of all the country produce of the United States. 

Portsmouth, which is on the other side of the river, has 18,000 inhabitants. 
The two cities are three-quarters of a mile apart, are practically one and the 
same, and are known commercially as Norfolk. Yet it must not be understood 
that Norfolk has all the credit, because Portsmouth is the silent partner. Far 
from it. Portsmouth shares the honors, and while her smaller branches of busi- 
ness are not as active as those of Norfolk, she has the terminus of two railroads 
right at her wharves and two others just out of her corporate limits, and can 
boast of a navy yard which is second to but one in the United States, and that is 
the Brooklyn yard. Norfolk is the terminus of six railroads and has many 
passenger steamers, making her one of the most convenient places in the world. 
Her banking facilities, the great medium through which business is conducted, 
Oourish to good advantage, and of these places of business there are seven. There 
are eleven newspapers, four of which are daily, one semi-weekly, five weeklies 
and one monthly. She has a good system of sewerage, two street-car lines, two 
beach resorts reached by rail, one eight miles distant and the other eighteen, and 
the " Ilygcia," one of the most popular seaside resorts on the coast, fifty minutes 
by boat, with frequent trips and excellent accommodations for this route. 




TRINITY CHURCH PORTSMOUTH, VA., ERECTED 1762, RESTORED [829. 

Rector, R. W. Forsyth. 



NORFOLK. 63 

CLIMATE, GROWTH, ETC. 

HE climate is changeable but healthy, the gulf stream, which washes close 
in at this part of the coast, mitigating to a great extent the cold waves 
from the north and west. She has many handsome residences and some 
attractive public buildings. A peculiarity of Norfolk's growth during the last 
fifteen years is that while she has been steadily expanding in area, there have 
been hundreds of houses built right in the heart of the city, old and disfiguring 
structures have given place to handsome buildings, marshes have been filled up, 
and a pond, where fifteen years ago hundreds could go boating, is now a broad 
avenue leading from Bank and Granby Streets to the new city market. 

These and other improvements have been made, and while Norfolk has been 
extending her territory, there has been such a complete transformation in the 
principal parts of the city as to merit the name — not ancient but modern Norfolk. 
I think it is time the distinction was made. 

Norfolk College, for young ladies, is an attractive building and one of the 
finest affairs of its kind in the South. It has a capacity for about three hundred 
pupils, many of whom come from other States. The Leach-Wood Seminary, for 
young ladies, is under the management of the above-named ladies, and is a perfect 
school. There is a new market house, which cost $80,000, a handsome post office 
of granite, and near by a first class Y. M. C, A. building. The movement toward 



64 NORFOLK— ATTRACTIVE BUILDINGS. 

its erection was put on foot about five years ago by Rev. Mr. Moody (evangelist), 
who was conducting an immense revival in Norfolk at that time, and was most 
nobly responded to by man}-, who contributed large sums toward it. 

St. Vincent's Hospital is a beautiful place, but situated in an unattractive 
portion of the city. 

On the southeast corner of Bank and Freemason Streets stands the oldest 
residence in the city; having been built in 1792, is is now just one hundred 
years old. 

Opposite to this old house is Freemason Street Baptist Church, which is with- 
out doubt a very handsome structure of its kind It is of Gothic design 
and decidedly artistic. Thirteen years ago, during a cyclone, which was blowing 
at the rate of ninety miles an hour, its towering steeple was blown to the ground, 
making it more picturesque than before. One will scarcely pass it without a look 
of admiration. The pastor of this church, Rev. M. B. Wharton, D. D., has, by 
his sterling qualities, endeared himself to the community. He is an excellent 
minister of the gospel, practical and striking in his illustrations ; possessing much 
personal magnetism and natural eloquence, he claims the closest attention of his 
hearers. Dr. Wharton is a broad-minded gentleman, who has seen much of the 
world and some court life. In 1882 he was appointed United States Consul to 
Sonnberg, German}', and while in Europe wrote his "Notes," of which many of 
my readers have heard and not a few read. This book contains 375 pages, is 



NORFOLK — DR. WHARTON'S POEM. 



66 



instructive and entertaining from beginning to end. It teems with information, 
and is interesting, not only to those who have not had the good fortune to see 
these places of such great importance in the Old World, but is a delightful review 
for those who have. With these notes before them they can, in fancy, live over 
many of their own European experiences. "Famous Women of the Bible" is 
another of this author's works. 

Besides his many accomplishments, Dr. Wharton is a poet of considerable 
genius. Below, is a poem which he composed impromptu. It is full of genuine 
song, and highly expressive of his confidence in Norfolk's future. 



THE CITY OF NORFOLK. 



I love to sing thy praise 
Thou City by the Sea, 
And think upon the greatness 
The Future holds for thee, 
The Future holds for thee, 
Within her mighty hand, 

When otir destined ocean monarch 
Shall rule the sea and land. 



Thy turrets gleam in splendor, 

Thy streets are ever gay, 
Thy nights are filled with music, 
While traffic rules the day, 
While traffic rules the day, 
With rich returns of wealth, 
And Hygeia's rosy fingers 
Attinge the cheek of health. 
F 



6-j NORFOLK. 



Thy daughters are the fairest 

That ever man adored, 
Thy soldiers proved the bravest 
That ever buckled sword, 
That ever buckled sword, 
Or bore a patriot's shield, 

As they followed gallant Pickett 
On Pennsylvania's field. 



How like a dream of beauty, 

Thy tides majestic sweep, 
Where birds of heavenly plummage 
Their snowy pinions steep, 
Their snowy pinions steep, 
Or soar amid the gale 

As they chant the mystic anthems, 
That greet the coming sail. 



The ships of every nation 

O'er Hampton's waters glide, 
With Ocean's bluest crystals 

Bright sparkling at their side, 
Bright sparkling at their side, 
'Neath pennants fair unfurled, 

Which bespeak for Norfolk harbor 
The commerce of the world. 



NORFOLK. 69 

Norfolk holds rare opportunities for those who will come, and by honest 
industry and judicious investments share the laurels she is earning, and derive 
from their investments a reasonable and even generous reward. I believe implic- 
itly in the future of Norfolk, and venture to say that a remarkable state of pros- 
perity is in store for her, and every one w r ho will consider, from an unprejudiced 
standpoint, her many natural advantages, her nearness to the sea, deep-water 
channel, perfect harbor, her solid business organizations, etc., can but agree with 
me in what I have said. Reference to a chart on a large scale of this section of 
the Chesapeake Bay will explain quite satisfactorily many of these advantages. 

In the early part of this centuty Moore visited Norfolk and wrote that mourn- 
ful yet beautiful poem, "The Dake of the Dismal Swamp." If, from some of his 
" Yon starry heights , " Moore could have seen the Norfolk of to-day, he would 
probably have eulogized her greatness, as Dr. Wharton has most cleverly done in 
"The City of Norfolk." 



70 NORFOLK. 

SUMMER RESORTS. 

|ORFOL,K has two summer beach resorts, Ocean View, situated on Chesa- 
peake Bay and eight miles from Norfolk, in full view of Old Point Com- 
fort and Cape Henry; Virginia Beach Hotel, distant eighteen miles, and 
right at the Atlantic, the waters of this turbulent ocean washing the beach within 
a stone's throw of its doors. Both of these hotels are first-class, and do not 
encourage the patronage of any guests but those of thorough respectability. 
Each may be said to possess certain advantages over the other. That of Virginia 
Beach is the larger and finer of the two, while Ocean View, with its comfortable 
accommodations, on account of its convenience to Norfolk, and other induce- 
ments, has such a patronage as to keep its rooms occupied all through the season. 
Boating, fishing, bathing, etc., are had here. The fishing is excellent, and boats 
for that purpose are provided for a reasonable price. Here we have in abundance 
that delicacy, the soft crab, while an equally celebrated delicacy (the hog fish), in 
its perfection, peculiar to Virginia, is gotten in great numbers. Many people of 
Norfolk have formed clubs and built cottages, and altogether it is an excellent 
place, and hundreds from the city take advantage of the short ride and cheap fare, 
and get away, if only for a few hours, from the hot city. The run down only 
requires twenty miflutes, and scores go each evening solely for the dancing. 




PRINCESvS ANN HOTEL, VIRGINIA BEACH. 



NORFOLK — SUMMER RESORTS. 72 

Virginia Beach, or Princess Ann Hotel, is first class in every particular, and 
has capacity for four hundred. It is six and one-half miles from Cape Henry 
Lighthouse, and guests frequently make the trip to this place and inspect the 
great tower and the two life-saving stations. Here you may get a comprehensive 
idea of how this good work is done, and the drive along the beach is most pleasant. 
This hotel is beautifully and picturesquely constructed, and the interior is fitted 
up in such manner as to please the most fastidious. Boating, fishing, bathing, 
etc., are among its attractions, and the surrounding country, in the proper season, 
furnishes game for the sportsman. 

Those who wish to recuperate and rest from long spells of dissipation, will find 
this place an admirable one for them. Here one may in perfect security witness Old 
Neptune in all his antics. The surf, which in moderate weather permits bathing, 
assumes during an easterly storm the form of breakers, that are capable of dashing 
to pieces the greatest ships. Breakers that form half a mile out, and are seen 
coming with resistless fury, their white-capped crests twisting and curling seem- 
ingly in maddening haste to reach the shore, where, with a deafening roar, they 
expend themselves and sullenly retire. The beach in this vicinity is seldom 
without a wreck, and frequently the ship is landed high and dry (the visitor being 
able to walk around her), showing the great force of the surf; but owing to the 
excellent service of the life-saving stations which dot the beach every five miles, 
there is very slight loss of life, 



73 NORFOLK — SUMMER RESORTS. 

One wreck of a serious nature occurred about a year ago, and not more than 
half a mile from the hotel. This was the large Norwegian barque, " Dictator," 
which was caught here on a lee shore in a furious north-north-east gale, and being 
unable to get her head off, struck several hundred yards out from the beach and 
was a total wreck. At least half of one of her great sides washed ashore in one 
piece, and the beach for two miles was strewn with heaps of Georgia pine, with 
which she was loaded. Her great masts, two feet in diameter, were shattered in 
pieces, and articles of clothing, coats, hats, slippers, kerchiefs, etc., met the gaze 
of the curious ; and the writer has in his possession a beautiful piece of crocheting 
which he supposes was the. work of the captain's wife. This lady and her little 
boy, together with about eight of the barque's crew, were drowned. One of the 
saddest phases of this wreck was the manner in which this unfortunate woman 
died. The captain lashed his little boy to his back and attempted to swim ashore 
with him, intending to return for his wife ; but his boy was torn from him, and 
reaching shore after desperately battling with the breakers, he was unable to return 
to the assistance of his wife, who perished before his eyes. Not long before the 
occurrence of this wreck, a vivacious, romantic 3 r ouug lady, guest of the hotel, 
jestingly called on the proprietor to furnish them with a real storm, little thinking 
that one of such severity and horror would so soon follow' her innocent request. 
Relics from this and other wrecks are seen at " The Princess Ann," and one can 
fully realize that they are right at the Atlantic. 







vtunc 



SCENES NEAR PRINCESS ANN HoTKJ,, VIRGINIA BEACH. 



Poptsnrpoutl?. 



THE NAVY YARD. 

/r^PTER seeing Norfolk, we will naturally experience a desire to visit the Navy 
\ Yard of Portsmouth, for, as already stated, this is next in importance to 
the one at Brooklyn, and the character of the work now going on there in 
the construction of the cruiser Raleigh and battle ship Texas, fully supports this 
assertion. Those who wish to see this place can do so with the greatest ease. 
From Norfolk we may take passage on the ferry boat and arrive on the other side, 
Portsmouth, in five minutes, where we will see carriages waiting specially for 
those who purpose visiting the yard. Entering one of them, we will, in ten 
minutes, find ourselves passing through its grounds. If we wish to avoid this 
expense, we may take the government launch, which leaves a slip adjoining the 
ferry dock, and arrives at the yard after about ten minutes run. For the travelers' 



76 



PORTSMOUTH — NAVY YARD. 



convenience is given the schedule of this launch, which is in effect up to date 
(Feb. 13th, '92) and says : On and after Oct. 6th, '90, the following schedule will 
be observed : 



Leaving Norfolk. 
8.45 A. M. 1.30 P. M. 

10.30 " 2.30 " 

11.30 " 3.30 " 

4.40 " 



Leaving the Yard. 
S.15 A. M. 1. 15 P. M. 

9.30 " 2.00 " 

[i. 00 " 3.00 " 

4.10 " 



This has been in effect over sixteen months, and will probably continue so for 
some time yet. The two meu-o'-war now being built may, by the time a copy of 
this little book comes into your possession, be seen floating majestically and 
defiantly to their moorings in the stream. Too many figures would be tiresome, 
so their dimensions will not be given ; all are quite familiar with them, and know 
that for the defense of the United States these two vessels, with their iron sides 
and frowning batteries, will be most able defenders, and ships that scores of 
European men-o'-war would hesitate to meet in an engagement. 

There are two dry-docks here, one of stone and built many years ago, the 
other of wood, a Simpson dock, and about the size of the one at Newport News. 
Moored alongside of the docks with their stone facings are always to be seen 
naval vessels of all kinds, some undergoing slight repairs or fitting out, others 




LAKE OF THK DISMAL SWAB 



PORTSMOUTH — NAVY YARD. 7S 

dismantled and having repairs of an extensive nature done to them, old-time sail 
ships, apparently "on their last legs," being scraped, painted, caulked and newly 
rigged to serve principally as training ships, and monitors with their battered 
turrets lying here; vast machine shops, foundries and equipment departments 
occupy the yard, and the constant clang, clang of heavy hammers, wielded by 
brawny arms, is ever heard. 

The seeker after the curious should go to the armory. This contains a 
museum and odds and ends, some quite curious can be seen. Entering this 
place and ascending one flight of stairs we pass under an arch of sabres, on 
which is this command, " No loud talking; " their points converging to a centre 
just over our heads seem to give emphases to it. To our right, after ascending 
the stairs, we see a thirty-five foot model of the monitor Dixie; a little further, 
and to our left, we pass under another arch of sabres and enter a room containing 
arms of curious pattern. Sabres and pistols are artistically arranged, and several 
cabinets of peculiar-looking arms and other relics are exhibited. In one of 
these cases, over against the south wall, is a charred piece of wood from the 
burned line of battleship Pennsylvania; old muskets, some dating as far back as 
1821, are stacked around, and others bearing no date, but apparently having gone 
through several wars, seem to be older; battered arms, with broken stocks, are 
preserved, recalling most vividly the trying times of other days. In the park are 
four siege mortars, bearing the inscription, " Republica de Yucatan," some old 

G 



79 SOME OLD EPISCOPAL CHURCHES. 

cannon of 1812, and two that present every appearance of having exploded, which 
is said to have occurred on board the Pennsylvania when she was burned. Sup- 
ported on a post is a large lump of what appears to be pure copper ore, this was 
the bell of the same ship; then on the other side a small propeller, another relic 
of that occasion. 

Over here every one is busy, none have time to answer questions, no guides 
can be gotten, and it is best to have a carriage and the driver will assist you very 
much in your investigations. 

SOME OLD EPISCOPAL CHURCHES. 

^^ T. PAUL'S, of Petersburg, was founded in 1642, and is the oldest church of 
@J this country now in use. Present rector, Rev. C. R. Haines. 

The church at Williamsburg is in use and was erected 17 15. Rector, 
T. C. Page. 

Christ's Church, Alexandria, Va., was completed in 1773. Used and in good 
condition. 

Princess Ann, erected 1688. Not in use. 

Jamestown Church ; there is nothing but the ruins of this old building to be 
seen. It is believed by some to have been erected as early as 1614, but the exact 
date is not recorded. 



1 — 71 




SOME OLD EPISCOPAL CHURCHES. 8l 

St. Luke's, in Isle of Wight County, erected in 1632, and is the oldest church 
of all ; it is not in use, but a movement is on foot, with Rev. Mr. Barr, of Wash- 
ington, at its head to put it in order. The photograph of this church is a recent 
one, and judging from that its walls and tower seem to be fairly preserved. 

St. John's, of Richmond, built 1742. In use. Rector, Rev. I,ewis W. 
Burton . 

Trinity Church, of Portsmouth, was erected 1762 and rebuilt 1829. In good 
condition. Rector, Rev. R. W. Forsyth. 

The pictures of these old churches are all taken from recent photographs of 
them, with the exception of that of Jamestown, which was taken perhaps five 
years ago. 

Goose Creek Church, at Otranto, S. C, is a very old church and picturesque 
in appearance, begun 1706, finished 17 19. 

St. Michael's, of Charleston, S. C, begun 175 1 , finished 1761. 

For superb photographs and historical associations of these old churches, 
address, 

W. £*. BOUTWELili, PUBlilSHES, 

NORFOLK, iZTS. 



f^ampt 



OR. 



©ESIDES "The Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute," "The 
Home," etc., which are situated jnst outside the town, visitors will be 
attracted by St. John's Church, which is the second oldest in this country 
now in use; it was built it 1656, and therefore ranks next to St. Paul's, of Peters- 
burg-, which was built in 1642. Hampton has been swept by several fires since 
the war, has gone through various and trying ordeals during the two and a half 
centuries since this venerable structure was built, but it still stands a monument of 
colonial days and one of the principal attractions of this place. Most of the old 
Episcopal churches are tastefully fitted up, and St. John's, of Hampton, is not 
lacking in this respect. Memorial windows of beautiful stained glass render the 
interior handsome and attractive ; one of these deserves special mention on 
account of it having been presented by the Indians of Normal School ; this win- 
dow is of foreign make and cost #440. It is the first window to our right after 



HAMPTON — ST. JOHN'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 83 

entering the church. Another attraction is the communion table, which is a neat 
affair, made of oak, the work of a young Indian, and a present from the Sunday- 
schdol. The present sexton is a character and can tell the visitor more in one 
breath than an average brain can master in five. This colored brother has every- 
thing by heart, is business to the backbone, and seems incapable of smiling, yet a 
little generous tipping will cause the features of this stoic to relax from their icy 
composure. Boliver has a deep bass voice, and will inform you that there are 
not many very old slabs in this yard (that of Capt. George Ray, who died in 
1758, being the oldest), but will be careful to tell you that St. John's Church is 
not far behind any in the matter of age. It was rebuilt in 1867, and even 
the old portion seems to be good for several generations yet. 

Although we cannot see many of the old inscriptions on the stones in this 
yard, it is probable, if they were cleaned, that some of the most ancient and 
curious would appear. Just outside of Hampton, on what is known as the Pem- 
broke farm, are several old slabs with the following epitaphs: 

Hccre lyeth the body of John Ncvill Esq. Vice Admiral in his Majestye's 
fleet and Commander in Chief of his squadron cruising in the West 
Indies why dyed on board ye Cambridge the 17th day of August 1697, in 
ye ninth year of the reign of King William the third, aged 53 years. 



S4 HAMPTON — OL,D AND CURIOUS EPITAPHS. 

To Peter Heyman. 

This stone was given by his excellency, Francis Nicholson Esq. Leuteni 
and Govenor General of Virginia in memory of Peter Heyman Esq. 
grandson to S. Peter Heyman of Summerfield in ye county of Kent. 
He was collector of customs in the lower district of James river and 
went voluntary on board ye Kings shipp Shoreham in pursuit of a 
pyrate who greatly infested this coast. After he had behaved himself 
seven hours with undaunted courage was killed w th a small shott ye 
29th day of Aprill 1799 in ye engagement as he stood next ye Govenor 
upon ye quarter deck, and was here honorably interred by his order. 

To Rev. M. Andrew Thompson. 

Here lyeth the body of Rev. M. Andrew Thompson who was born at 

, Scotland and was minister of the parish seven years and departed 

this life the of Sept. 1719 in the 46 year of his age. 

To Thomas Curle Gent. 

In hope of a blessed resurrection here lyes the body of Thomas Curie 
Gent who was born Nov. 4th, 1640 in the faith of St. Michael in Lewis 
in the county of Sussex in England and dyed May the 30th, 1700 

When a few years are counted I shall go the way whence 
I shall not return. — Job. 16-22. 




ST. JOHN'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH, HAMPTON, VA., ERECTED 1656. 



HAMPTON — OF TO-DAY. 86 

Hampton has, including those just outside the corporate limits, 5000 inhab- 
itants, and about as many stores, for its size, as any place one will run across in a 
week's travel. The Hampton of to-day is far different from that of ten years ago. 
The fires that have visited it since then have effaced many unattractive frame 
buildings ; new and handsome brick structures have taken their places, and she is 
growing with the rest of this prospering, progressive State. She has two banks, 
also building and loan associations. Real estate is in a healthy condition, having 
advanced most rapidly during the last five years, and everthing denotes a forward 
movement. 

A channel of fifteen feet is being dredged to Hampton Roads, and who can 
say it is altogether a wild speculation to intimate that at no very distant day 
Hampton will be a shipping place of some importance ; two miles of dredging is 
all that is necessary to give her a ship channel to Hampton Roads, and with the 
river dredged to the required depth, the harbor would easily shelter a score or 
more vessels if moored to docks, and even these facilities could be easily increased. 
Schooners of seven hundred tons (gross) now visit this place, and with energetic 
business men and a plenty capital to back them Hampton may yet be, not the 
metropolis of America, but a busy place of far more importance than most people 
now dream. 



«7 

THE HAMPTON NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 

O^HIS institute, on account of the good work it is doing for the Negro and 
\^/ Indian, deserves the praise and assistance of all broad-minded persons, and 
particulars of what it is doing and what has already been accomplished, will 
undoubtedly be interesting reading for those who wish to see these two races 
become good and useful citizens. The work being done by this school is concisely 
told in a memoranda issued by its principal, S. C. Armstrong, which is as follows : 

Negro students, boarders, 508 ; Indian students, boarders, 128 ; (10 Indians in 
northern homes); young men, 389 ; young women, 247 ; representing twenty 
states, average age, 18 years ; " Whittier " (day school) children, 275 — total, 911. 

Officers, teachers, managers and assistants number 80, of whom one-half are 
in industrial departments. 

The 723 graduates sent out since 1870 have taught 129,475 children in south- 
ern free public schools. Of the 31 Indian graduates included in above, 16 have 
taught in the west. 

This institution is incorporated by special Act of the Virginia Legislature, and 
is owned and managed by seventeen trustees (not under State or Government con- 
trol), representing six denominations, no one of which has a majority. It is 
earnestly and actively Christian in its teachings. 

Its " plant," costing $550,000, is the gift of friends. Its chief dependence is 



HAMPTON— NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 88 

on popular contributions, upwards of sixty thousand dollars being needed annually 
from charity alone. For its maintenance as a State Agricultural College for 
Negroes, the school receives aid from the College Land Scrip Fund (one-third of 
Virginia's share ; also, an annual appropriation from Congress for board and 
clothing of 1 20 Indians, whose tuition is provided by charity. 

Tuition is free to all by the provision of annual scholarships of seventy dollars 
each by northern friends, or by permanent scholarship foundations of fifteen 
hundred dollars. 

Education by self help is the fundamental idea of the school. Labor is digni- 
fied, and manual skiil and character are developed. The moral effect of the work- 
shop is its greatest recommendation. 

The acquired skill which carries a student through school, will maintain him 
through life, and make him a good and useful citizen. Begging by students is 
unknown in the history of this institute. 

board, washing, etc., are charged at the rate of $10.00 per month ; clothing 
and books, costing about $50.00 a year, are extra, paid for chiefly in labor. A 
separate account is kept with each student and rendered monthly ; this is an 
important part of his education. 

Last year our colored students were charged with $63,011.21, of which they 
paid in labor, $59,198.71, and in cash, $3,114.06 ; the rest is a debt to be paid 
after leaving school. 



89 HAMPTON — NORMAL, AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 

Girls' industries : Housework, laundering, sewing, tailoring, dressmaking, 
gardening, cooking, painting, training in use of carpenter's tools. 

Boys' industries : Farming, carpentering, wheel wrighting, blacksmithing, 
shoemaking, harnessmaking, printing, engineering, machine knitting, floriculture, 
and machinist's trade. A saw mill, cutting annually about three million feet of 
pine logs, with wood- working machinery, is operated by the boys. Mechanical 
drawing is taught to those learning trades. In addition, technical instruction is 
given in separate shops in the use of carpenter's, wheelwright's and blacksmith's 
tools, and in bricklaying. 

Over 300 applicants who wished to work out their education were refused 
admittance this year, chiefly from want of room. The majority of our pupils come 
from country regions (where the most and best of our Afro- American population 
live), with little on their backs or in their brains, and with little or nothing in their 
pockets. Only Knglish branches are taught in our four years' course of study ; 
the first is devoted to all day labor at fair wages and two hours evening classes 
throughout the year ; thus, skill and knowledge are acquired and funds provided 
for succeeding school terms. 

In the last three years the Normal course students work two days each week 
and study four, making no less progress in lessons for the time devoted to labor. 

From June 15th till October 1st, about half of the teachers and half of the 
students are absent, the latter to get profitable employment ; many Indians going 



HAMPTON — NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 90 

to the farmers of Massachusetts and Connecticut. The students who remain work 
to earn the means of paying for their education and improve in their trades. 
Vacations — rest from both labor and study — are unknown to the majority of our 
pupils while at school. 

The aim of the Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute is to train up 
teachers, examples and leaders of the Negro and Indian races of our country. Good 
teachers are urgently needed for the 20,000 colored public schools of the South, in 
which a majority of Hampton's 723 graduates are teaching. They report having 
taught since 1870, 129,475 children, and that 2,187 °f their pupils have become 
teachers. The great majority of the preachers and teachers of the negroes to-day 
are blind leaders of the blind. 

A special mission of this school is indicated by the fact that within a year it 
has sent trained mechanics and farmers to be instructors in industrial institutions 
for negroes in Alabama, Florida, Kentucky and Missouri, in response to an 
increasing demand for such teachers. 

The record of Indian students brought up to date shows, that of the returned 
students now in the West, or pursuing studies or trades in the East, 79 are excel- 
lent, 151 good, 57 fair, while but 39 are poor and 10 bad. In other words, 85 per 
cent, are doing from fairly to excellently well. 

The large majority of the students are regularly employed as teachers, school 
employes, catechists and missionaries, interpreters and clerks, carpenters, millers, 



91 HAMPTON — NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 

engineers, blacksmiths, farmers and herders. Quite a number have enlisted in the 
regular army. 

For " Instantaneous Views " of most of Hampton's graduates, as well as of 
each of the Indians who have since 1870 been sent to the West, see " Twenty-two 
Years' Work of Hampton Institute," a book of about 400 pages, printed by 
students, to be issued shortly, price, $1.00. 

These nearly one thousand brief biographies answer in detail the question : 
1 ' What becomes of those whom you educate and send to the South and West ? ' ' 

The Hampton Institute asks for gifts of annual scholarships of seventy dollars 
and for funds for general purposes. It hopes for an endowment that shall provide 
permanent and reliable means of support. 

Through our industrial system, the student needs no charity ; the institution, 
however, requires a large amount in gifts to make its work possible. The " mite " 
is always welcome. 

Contributions may be sent to S. C. Armstrong, Principal, or to F. N. Oilman, 
Treasurer, Hampton, Va. 




SCENE HAMPTON NORMAL, AND AGRICULTURAL, INSTITUTE. 

Soldiers' Home in the distance. n 



HAMPTON — NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 93 

Trustees : 

Mr. Elbert B. Monroe, President, Southport, Conn. 

Rev. M. E. Strieby, D. D., First Vice President, New York City. 

Hon. R. W. Hughes, Second I ice President, Judge of U. S. District Court, Norfolk, Va. 

Mr. S. C. Armstrong, Secretary, Hampton, Va. 
Mr. Robert C. Ogden, Philadelphia, Pa. Hon. Amzi Dodd, IX. D., Bloomfield, N.J. 

Hon. Lewis H. SteinER, Baltimore, Md. Rev. C. H. Parkhurst, D. D., New York 

Mr. Charles L. Mead, New York City. City. 

Rev. Alexander McKenzie, D. D., Cam- Rev. W. N. McVickar, D. D., Philadelphia. 

bridge, Mass. Prof. Francis G. Peabody, Cambridge, Mass. 

Mr. Geo. Foster Peabody, New York City. Mr. C. P. Huntington, New York City. 

Mr. Thos. Tabb, Hampton, Va. Rev. D. H. GREER, D. D., New York City. 

Investment Committee 

Who control and invest all funds contributed for Permanent Endowment: 

Elbert B. Monroe, Southport, Conn., Chairman, President of the Board. 
Geo. FOSTER Peabody, New York, of Spencer, Trask & Co., Bankers. 
Robert C. OGDEN, Philadelphia, of the firm of John Wanamaker. 
Chas. L. Mead, New York, of Stanley Rule and Ecvcl Company. 

The high standing of the trustees and investment committee speaks volumes 
for this institution. The $10,000 given annually by the State of Virginia endorses 



94 HAMPTON — NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 

most fully the school and its management, and those who wish to reclaim the 
Indian and assist the Negro cannot find a more satisfactory method than by donat- 
ing to this institution funds with which to carry on the good work. 

As will be seen from the report, many branches of industry are taught. All 
are busy, and make up to a great extent the cost of board, tuition, etc. ; but there 
still remains a deficiency which has to be supplied by private assistance. 
Evidence of activity is seen on every hand. The constant buzz of the big saw- 
mill, with Indians and Negroes working side by side, the score of busy seamstresses 
deftly plying their needles, a printing press, which not only does the printing for 
the school, but much outside work also, harnessmaking, wheel wrighting, car- 
pentering, etc., are proofs of the thorough training the student gets while here. 
It is industrial in every sense, and not neglectful of moral and social training. 
Miss Josephine Richards (in charge), referring to this, regarding the Indian, 
says : 

"To cultivate and refine the social tastes of the Indian, is no ua important part of our work 
for them. The contrast between new pupils and old is, perhaps, nowhere more striking than 
here. The newly arrived maiden, bereft of the friendly shelter of her shawl, peers out from 
retired nooks ill the big hall at Winona, or ga7.es down statuesquclv from the landing of the 
stairway at the festivities below, when Saturday night brings over the braves for a social gather- 
ing, and if perchance, she has been invited by a friend to sit with him at a concert or other 
entertainment in Virginia Hall, she may need to be pushed forward almost by main force when 



HAMPTON — NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 95 

he appears to escort her up stairs. A half surreptitious interview in some shadowy corner may 
be quite to her liking ; but to come forward with modest self-possession and quiet dignity, and 
bear her share in the entertainment of guests, whether white or Indian, seems utterly beyond 
her. It is done, however, and very gracefully, by our advanced girls. A similar contrast in 
bearing appears among the boys. On the one side we see the Senior or Middler, wearing his 
straps or chevrons as an officer of the Batallion, composedly offering his arm to a girl friend, and 
leading a long line of couples through an intricate march ; or, when introduced to a dis- 
tinguished visitor from abroad, answering questions courteously and intelligently. On the 
other is seen the raw recruit, stuck fast to the wall and looking hopelessly stolid and reserved 
when accosted by a stranger. This social training begins in the Indian dining room, where boys 
and girls sit together on opposite sides of the long tables. A new boy is apt to find the situation 
somewhat overwhelming; perhaps he is "too 'shamed" to eat, but, by degrees, he becomes 
wonted to his surroundings, until his vis-a-vis, who may be a bright little Normal School 
maiden, succeeds even in drawing forth his slender stock of English, and he takes his share in 
the merry talk of the table. Here, too, he learns the principle of waiting upon the twirls first, 
and discovers if one is left standing he must be prompt in finding her a chair. Newcomers are 
silent as to their sensations, but it must be a revelation to some of them to note how readily the 
girls assume their part in the various literary and musical entertainments at Winona and 
elsewhere." 

The writer interviewed a fourteen-year-old maiden of the Winnebago tribe, 
and learned that she had been under care of the Government four years, and when 
asked if she would like to return to her former state of wild freedom, gave a nega- 
tive reply. She answered all questions in a very intelligent manner, seemed to 



96 HAMPTON — NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. 

have an amiable disposition, and demonstrated most plainly by her refined 
manner that the four years' advantage of civilization had not been wasted in this 
case. This young miss was as modest and co}'' as a young girl who is just 
budding into womanhood can be. 

In the building containing the library are Indian curiosities, souvenirs and 
many specimens of work done by the students of both sexes. In entering and to 
our left is seen a section of sacred soil from Jamestown, and showing the trans- 
formation from shell to loam. Ascending the stairs we notice crayons of Wm. 
Cullen Bryant, Longfellow, Oliver Wendell Holmes, L,owell, Sherman, Whittier 
and others. A cabinet of minerals is seen on the lower floor, and samples of the 
students' work in tin ware, carpentering, wheelwrightiug, etc., while the upper is 
both library and museum. 



(VERYTHING suggests thorough system and good results, the best evidence 
of which will be gotten by a visit to this place. The students are frank 
and unaffected in manner, are courteous and one sees a degree of intelli- 
gence and genuine enlightenment in them which will surprise those who are not 
familiar with the rapid strides the}' are making. The doors of this school are open 
to visitors, and an investigation of its affairs cordially invited. 




RESIDENCE OF GENERAL S. C. ARMSTRONG 
Principal of Hampton Normal Institute. 



P)ampt 



on. 



NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. 

r^ HIS beautiful resting place of the old Union soldier, is one of the most 
\^J attractive places in this section of the state. Here they pass their remain- 
ing days in rest, and if they so will, in absolute idleness. Nothing that 
conduces to their comfort and pleasure is lacking at this soldier's rest, as will be 
witnessed by those who make an inspection of it. Places of amusement and 
instruction are provided for those who care to avail themselves of them, and even 
those who are industrious and desire real manual labor can be gratified by working 
on the adjoining farm, but the majority seem to prefer inaction to any form of 
work, and faces with stern, set expressions are seen on every hand. Evidently 
they are living in the past, and amid heavy clouds of tobacco smoke, the scenes 
of other days are probably lived over each day. There are a few who earn a little 
by the sale of souvenirs of their own make, such as walking canes, ships, images, 
etc., in narrow neck bottles. Some of them perhaps are out boating or bathing, 



99 HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. 

but the general impression created is that they ' ' have nothing to do and nothing 
to do it with." Representatives of various nations are living here, and by the 
curious manner in which they gaze at you, one is made to feel something like an 
intruder, the great wonder is they never tire of staring at visitors considering the 
large number who come to this place daily. The main building fronts Hampton 
Roads, and was formerly " The Chesapeake Female College," but was after the 
war converted into its present use. The interior has been materially altered, and 
many of the smaller rooms have given place to spacious wards. This building is 
surmounted by a dome, and there are four tiers of delightful verandas. Its 
situation is most pleasant and all that could be desired for such a place, the 
climate is healthful and living here should give the soldier a new lease of life. 
Commanding a full view of -Hampton Roads, and the ships that pass in and out ; 
vessels of every description ; large and small ; pretty and curious ; merchantmen 
and men o' war ; ever varying ; the delight of those whose instincts may be of a 
nautical nature. But who can tell the thoughts of the old soldier as he gazes out 
on this panorama ! Have almost forgotten ties of perhaps a foreign country 
suddenly stirred him to tender reccollections, and does he wish himself on board 
one of those great ships, bound for his native shore ? What ever his thoughts, it 
is more than likely that he will never more see his native country, so he turns 
from this scene and finds much consolation for his longings in letters and news- 
papers from the land of his pleasant memories. 



HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLOIKR'S HOME. IOO 

The grounds are beautifully laid off and nicely kept. There is a green house 
where visitors may get flowers (many of those seen at the Hygeia supplied from 
here) and skirting the water front a delightful promenade, with large urns of 
flowers and their fragrance to still further charm our senses. Close to the main 
building the visitor, if he so desires, may secure the services of one of the soldiers 
who will for whatever amount one chooses to give, facilitate matters and help you 
to see much easier than otherwise. He will probably first take you to the main 
building where, on entering we notice overhead the letters N. M. H. for D. V. S., 
which we will interpret into "National Military Home for Disabled Volunteer 
Soldiers." The guide will take you up in an elevator to the third floor where 
you will be shown one of the largest wards, which is but a sample of the others, 
then we mount one flight of stairs and find ourselves in lower part of dome, from 
here we can look out in every direction on the surrounding country and the scenery 
is truly refreshing. Looking one way you see Newport News with its big grain 
elevator, in another, to our right and almost at our feet the ancient and historic 
town of Hampton, a little nearer and almost on a line with Hampton is "The 
Normal and Agricultural Institute," with its training departments for Indians and 
Negros, industrial buildings, etc., of which the guide may tell you something, 
but for an adequate idea of this place we must visit it. Now looking Eastward 
we may plainly see Cape Henry and its two light houses which are sixteen and one- 
half miles (nautical ) in a straight line. The lower one to the right is the older of 



IOI HAMPTON— NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. 

the two, and not used as a night beacon, but is left standing simply as a day mark. 
This is one of the oldest light houses in the country, and 1791 in large rough 
figures show that it is over a century old. The tower to the left is thirty -five feet 
higher, was constructed about twelve years ago, is entirely of iron, cost over 
seventy thousand dollars and is one of the best on the coast. Under ordinary 
circumstances it is visible from a ships deck twenty-five miles ; it has been seen 
by some a distance of thirty-five and even forty miles. The bay that makes in 
just to the right of Cape Henry is Lynhaven, into which empties a creek by the 
same name ; here in this creek we get the famous Lynhaven oysters. Looking to 
the left we may, if the atmosphere is perfectly clear, discern a dark strip of land 
pointing Southward, this is the Eastern shore of Virginia which terminates in a 
point called Cape Charles ; here again a few miles North of this point is Cherry- 
stone with its also famous oysters. Mr. Wm. H. Kimberly, of Old Point Comfort, 
owns some of the most valuable beds, and frecpiently visiting this place, brings 
with him upon his return, specimens of these plump, excellent bivalves which he 
exhibits to his many friends with pardonable pride and satisfaction, discoursing of 
their merits in a genial and affable manner. These oysters are plump, slightly 
salt and delight the palate of the oyster lover. 

From Capes Henry and Charles we involuntarily turn again to Hampton 
Roads, noble sheet of water, large enough to accommodate the navies of the 
world, thou hast given protection to thousands ol storm tossed mariners who 




SCENES AROUND SOLDIERS' Iin.MK. 



HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER S HOME. I03 

wearied by hours of anxiety and danger have been only too glad to evade the fury 
of the gale and glide peacefully into thy sheltering care. Just beyond Hampton 
Roads, South-Southeast of us and distant ten miles is the busy bustling city of 
Norfolk, but on account of an intervening point (Sewel's) our view of this place 
is obstructed. After from this elevation, having seen all the different objects of 
interest and being thoroughly refreshed by the cool breeze that is almost con- 
stantly circulating through the dome, we retrace our steps, going down one flight 
of stairs and stepping out on one of the delightfully cool verandas that extend 
the whole length of the building we can but imagine the Southern girl had for 
mental and physical developement one of the most suitable places in the country. 
There is very little more of interest to be seen in here, but we may pause on the 
first floor and peruse some of the many rules displayed for the inmates to read and 
profit by. Following are the principle ones. 

A quarterly muster of pensioners will be held at the treasurer's office at nine 
o'clock A. M. on the second day of March, June, September and December. 
If a pensioner fails to answer to his name, his voucher will not be sent to the 
pension agent for the collection of his money unless he reports in person in the 
treasurer's office on the morning of the fifth day of the month. 

Soldiers who are inmates of the Home will conduct themselves at all times 
in a quiet and soldierly manner, and observe strict courtesy toward their officers 
and in their intercourse with each other. They will discharge such duties under 
direction of non-commissioned officers as may he required. 



104 HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER S HOME. 

Profanity and vulgarity are forbidden, and quarrels among the soldiers and 
employees will subject the offenders to punishment. 

The use of intoxicating liquor is prohibited, and any one who brings it to 
this Home will be recommended for dishonorable discharge. 

No smoking is allowed about the buildings except in the rooms designated 
for that purpose. 

Scrupulous cleanliness in person and dress is enjoined ; and no nuisances will 
be committed in or about the buildings. 

Water, sweepings or refuse of any sort, will not be thrown from the windows 
or doors, but must be placed in proper receptacles for removal. 

Marking on the walls or furniture or defacing the houses or property in any 
way, will subject the offender to punishment. 

Spitting on the floors of the rooms, hallways, piazzas or chapel is strictly 
forbidden. 

Soldiers will not leave the grounds of the home, nor enter the barns, stables, 
work-shops, kitchen, laundry or detached buildings without permission. 

The wearing of citizen's clothing is prohibited ; soldiers will appear at all 
times in their proper uniform, the money value of which if sold, lost or destroyed, 
will be charged to the offender, and such other punishment inflicted as may be 
deemed proper. For fatigue duty, a suitable dress will be provided, but every 
soldier must appear in uniform in the dining room. 



HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. I05 

Complaints of neglect or ill treatment will be made to the Commandant. 

At Reveille each soldier will rise, wash and dress himself neatly, his clothing 
will be neatly brushed, boots cleaned and his quarters prepared for inspection. 

A call will be sounded fifteen minutes before dinner and supper to allow time 
for preparation for those meals. 

At all leisure hours the soldiers will be allowed free access to the reading and 
smoking rooms, where, however, the utmost decorum is enjoined. 

At Tattoo soldiers will retire at once to their quarters, and at Taps all lights 
will be extinguished. 

No soldier or employee other than the person assigned to such duty will at 
any time interfere or meddle with the furnaces, ranges, lights or water- works 
of the Home. 

From the First of March to the Thirtieth of September, Reveille will be 
sounded at five-twenty o'clock A. M., Retreat at six o'clock P. M. From the 
First of October to the First of March, Reveille will be at six o'clock A.M. and 
Retreat at five o'clock P. M. 

Dinner will be at twelve M. and Tattoo at nine o'clock P. M. the whole year. 
Taps half an hour after Tattoo. 

Commandants of companies will report all absentees at Reveille and Taps. 

There will be an inspection of quarters at eight o'clock A. M. each day, by 



io6 



HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. 



the Sergeant Major and Provost Sergeant who will report any neglect of cleanli- 
ness to the Commandant. 

Repeated disregard of the rules of this institution will be followed by the 
expulsion of the offender. 

Shaving five cents, hair cutting and shampooing each fifteen cents. 

The foregoing are the fundamental rules of the Home, others are made from 
time to time as necessary, and the inmates evince a desire to keep posted in regard 
to any new proclamation. They are reminded that they are subject to The Articles 
of War, and it is to their interest to do so. Along with these rules is a card with 
the price of each article of clothing, which is as follows. 



Caps, . . . 
Great Coats, 
Dress Coats, 
Blouse, 
Vest, . 
Trousers 
Shoes, 
Boots, 
Slippers, 



$ .60 Shirts K. W., $ .75 

6.50 Drawers K. F., 60 

6.00 Socks, 25 

3.00 Overalls, 1.00 

2.00 Drawers R. F 1.50 

3.00 Pouchos 1. 00 

2.00 Shirts R. F., 1.50 

3.00 Shirts D. F., 1.00 

80 Suspenders 25 



There are on the roll about four thousand, but only two thousand seven 
hundred present, the others are away on furlough or working at various occupa- 



HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. I07 

tious in and about Hampton. There are forty-six colored pensioners whose 
quarters are in the rear of the others. The average death rate is about twelve 
each month. 

We can realize that it takes something to provision this army, but to get a 
proper conception of what is consumed we must go with them to the immense 
dining room. A call is sounded fifteen minutes before meal time and then the 
hustling begins. The dining room is one hundred by one hundred and twenty 
feet, contains twenty-two tables, each seating forty-eight, and three waiters to a 
table. Now as two thousand seven hundred are here, we will see that a little 
more than one third can be seated at one time. There is a daily consumption of 
two hundred pounds of sugar and eight barrels of flour, for breakfast eight hun- 
dred pounds of meat, for dinner, one thousand two hundred pounds of meat, seven 
barrels of potatoes, about the same of turnips, besides smaller dishes. The meat 
is cut into seven and eight pound roasts and cooked by steam , a row of ovens very 
much resembling large kettles are provided for this purpose, the steam is admitted 
into them through perforations in the bottom and does its work in about two hours 
and a half; the meat is then thoroughly done, is quite dry, so there is no rich 
gravy to interfere with digestion. By this process there is great shrinkage, much 
of the nutritive qualities of the meat is extracted, draining off through pipes to be 
used I suppose for the sick. Potatoes, turnips and other vegetables are cooked in 
the same manner. Before leaving the culinary department we should look at the 



Io8 HAMPTON — NATIONAL SOLDIER'S HOME. 

large copper coffee boilers; there are four of them, each holding one hundred 
gallons, and are used alternately for tea and coffee. We will now leave the soldier 
to the enjoyment of his wholesome repast and take a peep into the library, passing 
on our way the boiler house which furnishes steam and heat for the different 
buildings ; a chimney one hundred and fifty feet high attracts us to this place and 
the guide will tell you it is called the ' ' gattling gun ' ' on account of its resemblance 
to that instrument of warfare, but as most chimneys are more or less on that order 
I do not see the necessity of attributing to this one any special importance. 
Finding ourselves at the door of the library we enter, running the long gauntlet 
of readers on each side, and notice suspended on either hand paintings and steel 
engravings. Directly in front of us placed in the most conspicuous position is an 
oil painting of General McClellan. The librarian will inform you that they receive 
about sixty different kinds of newspapers daily, most of them English and 
American, but some German and one or two Swedish. It seems that all should be 
satisfied with this liberal supply of literature. Here the Germans and others 
reading of old associations may live them over again. This library was once an 
amusement hall. Here and there, even in winter we see tents scattered about 
the grounds, particularly in the rear of the Home, and one might wonder why 
they are camping out ; the fact is they have been taxed to their utmost to accommo- 
date the large number of pensioners, and every available building has been con- 
verted into dormitories ; a bowling alley being sacrificed for that purpose, and 




RESIDENCE OE (>UVKRNUR K T. WOODEIN, NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOME, HAMPTON, VA. 



HAMPTON — HARRISON PHOKBUS. IIO 

they are at last forced to camp out. The soldiers now have left a billiard room 
and a theatre ; the latter the donation of Mr. Horatio Ward, of London, England, 
and a most generous and handsome gift. Its present capacity is twelve hundred 
but extensive alterations are being made and when finished will accommodate 
fifteen hundred. 

The house of Governor P. T. Woodfin who is in charge here is pleasantly 
situated near the water and close to the conservatory. In the Eastern part of the 
grounds is the hospital, with capacity for five hundred, nicely arranged for its 
purpose, and it is safe to say, that while in here the invalid soldier lacks nothing 
in the way of comforts and careful nursing. 

Not far from Soldiers' Home and in the direction of Old Point Comfort is a 
handsome red brick house which is the residence of Mrs. Phoebus, widow of 
Mr. Harrison Phoebus, former proprietor of the "Hygeia," who died several 
years ago, lamented by many who were acquainted with his sterling qualities. 
Mr. Phoebus by his success in the hotel business has been of the greatest benefit 
to people of the surrounding country ; the large hotel sending up prices for the 
farmers; fishermen realize good prices for their catches, while hundreds of 
artizans find employment about the immense hotel which is constantly having 
added to it improvements of some nature, undergoing remodeling etc. Mr. Phoe- 
bus gave the ball that is now rolling such a vigorus push that the whole country for 
miles has been benefitted either directly or indirectly by his restless energy. He 



Ill HAMPTON — HARRISON PHOEBUS. 

was a man with a big head (and heart), original, thoroughly practical and truly a 
self-made man, for when Mr. Phoebus first came to Old Point he was comparatively 
poor, but he succeeded in amassing a fortune, and at his death left his widow and 
children handsomely provided for ; the beautiful residence already alluded to cost, 
including furniture, sixty-five thousand dollars, and at her husband's death was 
taken as a part of her portion of his estate. 



f^ewpopt I^ews. 



» 



WEEVE years ago this was a lonely farming district with no sign of a town, 
' nor vestage of shipping. About that time it was made the terminus of the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road. Docks were built, laud companies 
formed, an immense and elegant hotel constructed, other industries set on foot, and 
in two years time it was changed from its former dormant, unimportant condition 
to a town of two thousand inhabitants, and has so prospered that now it is a 
bustling, busy little city, claiming a population of six thousand souls, and scarcely 
an idle person to be seen. 

There is not much of the curious here, no old colonial buildings built of 
brick made in England, no old Episcopal churches with storm battered sides that 
have stood for centuries, no curious monuments to those of a dozen generations 
back. Not much of this immediately at Newport News, but it is situated at the 
mouth of the most historic river in this hemisphere. From the observatory of 
the Warwick hotel we can single out No. i pier, which is to our left and furthest 



113 NEWPORT NEWS. 

from us. Just off the face of this pier, a little to the left, and not more than 
three or four hundred yards from it is where the Cumberland with her human 
cargo went down. She was so close in shore that many who survived did so by 
swimming to the beach. Now looking to our right and almost in front of pier 
No. 3, lie the bones of the Florida. 

Here from this elevation we can in thought become a member of the party of 
bold explorers as they with their curious ships and happy satisfied faces sailed up 
this beautiful river, looking to right and left in admiration of their new found 
world. How like a paradise it must have seemed to them after their long voyage, 
days and nights of buffeting by the waves, hours of anxiety and doubt. In fancy 
we can follow them in all their varied fortunes, the vicissitudes of colonial life, 
and then bring ourselves back to our realistic surroundings. It is not at all 
improbable that the bold pioneer John Smith, predicted for this place a future 
prosperity such as it is now having. And while for the lover of the curious there 
is not much to see, there is for the capitalist, business men and workmen, advan- 
tages of an unusual nature. Its nearness to the sea, deep water channel, and 
already assured prosperity are inducements to thousands to come. Real estate is 
in a healthy condition and those who own lots decline to sell without a good 
premium. There is an immense elevator with capacity for one and a half million 
bushels, which is fifteen good size cargoes. There are eight land companies of 
which the "Old Dominion" is the principle; building and loan associations, 



NEWPORT NEWS — IMPROVEMENTS, ETC. I 15 

three banks, passenger steamers and the fine ships of the Merchant and Miners' 
Transportation Company, also the elegant steamers of the Old Dominion line ; 
and others trading inland ply here regularly. Much building is going on, con- 
tractors have all they can attend to sometimes, and stores of every description are 
doing a thriving business. A ferry service between here, Norfolk, Old Point 
Comfort and Willoughby's Spit will soon make intercourse between these places 
even more perfect than it is. A new merchandise pier at a cofet of three hundred 
thousand dollars and a handsome passenger depot costing one hundred thousand 
dollars have been contracted for and are to be built this year. A lumber pier and 
other inprovements will soon be made. There is an abundant supply of the purest 
water, and the Newport News Light and Water Company, with a capital of one 
million dollars, has been formed for its proper distribution. Already they have 
begun work which involves the laying of fourteen miles of eighteen inch water 
main. The large merchandise piers are almost constantly lined with large ocean 
steamships, which carry immense cargoes of cotton, grain, flour, lumber, etc. The 
figures below show one busy months work. 



n6 



NEWPORT NEWS — SHIPPING FACILITIES. 



For the month of January, 1892. Foreign exports. 



Flour, $966,849 

Grain, 3 6 5.3 6 3 

Cotton, 188,896 

Flax Seed, 96,000 

Staves, 63,692 

Cattle, 47,140 

Lard, 66,320 

Clover, 8,818 



Lumber, $23,662 

Tobacco, 40,399 

Tallow, 14,043 

Dried Apples, 14,173 

Stearine, 10,487 

Glucose, 4,032 

Oat Meal, 6,286 

$1,916,160 



With smaller exports, such as pork, grass seed, jute bags, etc., furnishing a 
grand total of over two million dollars. An immense business is done in coal and 
besides the shipment of it from this point the company furnishes many cities along 
its route with large quantities. 

The Newport News Ship Building and Dry Dock Company have their mam- 
moth plant located one mile from the Newport News docks, and with their im- 
proved machinery and big dry dock are prepared to construct vessels of any size, 
two ships, each four thousand tons (net) being at this writing nearly ready for 
launching. An inspection of the extraordinary facilities will reward any one for 
a visit there. The machine shops and other buildings are provided with machinery 



NEWPORT NEWS — DRY DOCK, ETC. 



117 



of the latest pattern . The immense Simpson dry clock has been most satisfactorily 
patronized. Its dimensions are as follows. 



Length on top, 600 ft. 

Width on top, 130 " 

Draught of water 25 " 



Width on bottom, 50 ft. 

Width at entrance, 93 " 



Time required for pumping out dock one hour and a half. For the benefit of 
those who may be interested, I give the dimensions of the principle buildings of 
this plant. The yard contains sixty acres and has a water front of over one third 
of a mile. 



Offices, 40 x 200 ft. 

Pattern and joiner shops, ... 60 x 300 " 

Machine shop, . , 100 x 300 " 

Boiler shop, 100x300" 

Blacksmith shop 100x300" 

Bending shed, 60 x 127 " 

Ship fitter's shop, 60 x 320 " 

Ship blacksmith shop, 120 x 208 " 



Pipe fitters' shop, 50 x 20S ft. 

Powerhouse, 40 x 130" 

Paint shops, 50 x 160 " 

Time keepers house, 50 x 40 " 

Lumber shed, 40 x 300 " 

Pump house, 43 x 60 " 

Stable, 40 x 600 " 

Fitting up shops 50 x 175 " 



DIMENSION OF PIERS. 



No. 1 50 x 900 ft. 

"2, 60 x 350 " 

"3. 80x350" 



No. 4, 60 x 550 ft. 

Outfitting Basin, 900 x 500 " 



IlS NEWPORT NEWS. 

DIMENSIONS OF SHIP WAYS. 

Nos. i and 2, 400 ft. Nos. 5, 6, 7, 8, each 500 ft. 

" 3 " 4, 45o " 

The enormous capital that has been laid out in these facilities shows that this 
company has come to stay, and that they have the utmost confidence in the future 
of Newport News. 



ii9 



ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 1000 GUESTS 



R-SD0D50N 

PROPRIETOR 



RA-D0D50N 

tL^-> MANAGER. 




Liberal Arrangements made with 

Families and Parties by the 

Week or Month 



Three Iron Fire Escapes. 
Five Stairuuays. 



Espeeial attention of Tourists 



and Invalids is called to the 



Fine Climate of Norfolk. 



Eleetrie Ltights throughout 
the Hotel. Electric Bells, 
Elevators, Hot and 
Cold Baths. 



RMRWOQD^ 



^ 



GEO. BOOKER, Ouinep and Proprietor. Fortress CClonPoe, Va. 



THE SHERWOOD is a New Bailding, heated by Steam or Grate Fire, Hot and Cold Baths, 
Electric Bells, Steam Laundry, etc. Is situated in the centre of the Reservation, directly 
opposite the Main Entrance to Fortress Monroe. Two minutes walk from the Hygeia and 
new Chamberlain Hotels. Convenient to Steamship Piers and Depot. 



Terms, $2.00 to $5.00 pel* Day. Send for Descriptive Catalogue. 



EJLAGSS OP iNTBI^BSIt ABOUND OLD gOINT ©OMFOI^Il. 

NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOME, WILLIAMSBURG, OCFANVIEW, YORKTOWN, 

OLD ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, INDIAN TRAINING SCHOOL, NORMAL SCHOOL, JAMESTOWN ISLAND, 

HAMPTON. PORTSMOUTH, NORFOLK, FIRST SETTL E MENT. 

NEWPORT NEWS, VIRGINIA BEACH, GOSPORT NAVY YARD. 



Unsurpassed fof a Quiet and Healthy j^esoft. 



OPEN THE YEAH HOUND. 



F. DeLRCY, Proprietor*. 



j^apk^ide ti-ii- 



RI5 

Rates-$2 to $3 per Day. 
Seduced Kates by the Week. 



CANADIAN SIDE. 



fllflGA^fl FAkkS. 



THE Hotel is beautifully situated on the rising 
ground just opposite the Park, and from 
its spacious verandahs commands a magnificent 
view of the Falls. 



COMMODIOUS Dining Room supplied with 
seasonable delicacies; large verandahs 
which command a fine view, and airy bedrooms 
make the Parkside a popular resort for tourists. 



^jJf^lilNGTON HOTEli, 

/^A^ N. E. FORWARD, 

Lessee and Manager. 

Batesville, Arkansas. 



EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN PLAN 

AMPLE SAMPLE ROOMS. 
ELECTRIC BELLS AND MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. 

CENTRALLY LOCATED. 



-^ 



Formerly with- 



Stheet Cars and Busses to all Trains. 



Tecumseh House, London, Out., Can. 
Revier House, London, Out., Can. 
Crawford House, Chicago. 
Lf.land Hotel, Chicago. 
Gardner House, Chicago. 
.St. Nicholas Hotel, Cincinnati, O. 
Gault House, Louisville, Ky. 
Hotel Main, Ft. Smith, Ark. 
LeGrand Hotel, Ft. Smith, Ark. 



-7K- 



MIGHT 



VIEW 



HOUSE 



123 

This new and elegant house is just open for 
the reception of guests. It is beautifully located 
on the water, affording unexcelled facilities for 
boating, bathing and fishing, and is surrounded 
by handsome grounds, and commands a full view 
of Fort Monroe and Old Point Comfort, Va. 



For the pleasure-seeker or invalid, this house has no superior in this latitude. 
The location is remarkable for its health. The rooms are large and well venti- 
lated, and the cuisine is unsurpassed. Electric lights. 

It is within five minutes drive, over a perfect shell road, of the Fort and the 
Hygeia Hotel, and but a short distance from the Hampton Institute and the 
Soldiers Home. Electric Cars between Hampton and Old Point, pass every 
twenty minutes. 

WAGONETTES MEET ALL BOATS AND TRAINS. 
For further information address, C. E. WELCH, PROPRIETOR, 

FORT MONROE, VA. 



124 



AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLAN. 




llll WB |"*'l'^ ^ 






in 




t«e st. jnncs 

NORFOLK, VA 

/. A. KENNEDY, 

Proprietor. 

Tl'ATKD in the centre of business. 
Elegantly furnished and first-class 
in every particular. 



'■nniui U >iu„ 1 ., ul s imil „ llllllllli|im 
ttaiSSSsaS^art """'"™ ll,m : "»<™i'Hiiiiii,, U u, liluu „.. 



AMERICAN PLAN, $2.50 TO $3.00 PER DAY. 

EUROPEAN PLAN, $1.00 AND UP PER DAY. 



FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT IN CONNECTION. 



125 




otel \jjarw\e\, 



I^ewport I^ew§, ^a. 



Modern and first-class in all its appointments, offering 
an attractive and convenient resort for families 
and transient visitors. For circulars, etc., address, 



J. H\ Su/inertor?, <jT?anagep, 

Newport News, Va 



€. 









LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




006 092 167 2 



